by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
I celebrate cocktail week with a visit to THE BAR and Galvin restaurant at The Athenaeum Hotel & Residences in London’s Mayfair
A playground for the rich and famous for more than 170 years, 116 Piccadilly is home to one of London’s most iconic hotels, The Athenaeum. An extensive refurbishment of ground floor and bar areas by Kingsley Kent Design this summer has opened up the lobby and reception, while the former Garden Room has evolved into THE BAR, a cool destination lounge bar with its own private entrance on Down Street.
I’m sitting at the bespoke black marble counter top, looking out at the Living Wall by Patrick Blanc opposite – this is a beautiful softly lit space. The sofas and chairs lend an air of relaxed sophistication and the service is immediate and friendly.
I’m here to meet the renowned Italian entrepreneur and bar consultant Giancarlo Mancino, creator of a unique range of signature cocktails. He’s bar consultant to Michelin-starred chefs The Galvin Brothers who now run the food and beverage arm of The Athenaeum. With a repertoire of original creations but also some “classics with a twist”, all 15 bespoke botanical cocktails at The BAR are served in Mancino’s own cocktail glassware – each with a wormwood engraved motif – designed specifically to enhance the outstanding flavours.
Originally from the South of Italy, Giancarlo learned the art of mixing in the States, where he studied with Master Bartender Cory Campbell (he trained Tom Cruise for his role in the movie Cocktail). Moving to London, Giancarolo won Best Bartender awards in 2000 and 2001 while working at the Lanesborough’s Library Bar. Periods in Dubai and across India expanded his cultural and mixologist horizons, before returning to London to start his own consultancy Giancarlo BAR, which has now branched out to Hong Kong. As a result he continues to consult for some of biggest names in the hotel industry across the world.
Mancino is also known as the King of Vermouth – having created his own Mancino Vermouth range. His inspiration? “I became disappointed with commercially produced Vermouths – they were all lacking quality,” he tells me. “As a bartender I know the importance of having a quality Vermouth for cocktails. So I decided to experiment and produce my own.”
Having tested the market on his friends and family, Giancarlo was convinced he had a winner and started production in 2011. He chose a family run mill in the Piedmont area of northern Italy where he grinds the botanicals for 30 days.
The botanicals are then steeped with sugar beet spirit and added to a Trebbiano di Romagna wine base, which is stored for six months before bottling and labelling. The product is now shipped worldwide and there are four fabulous varieties: Secco, Bianco Ambrato, Rosso Amaranto and Vecchio.
An original spin on a classic taste, the botanical flavours are distinctive. Perfect as an aperitif on their own as well as a cocktail base. I especially enjoyed it neat on ice.
“I did a lot of my own research, traveling around the world searching for the right ingredients,” says Giancarlo. “Eventually I found 40 botanicals that I use. It’s been an incredible adventure.
“I put my own money on the table at first and it was more of a hobby but then it went boom! Suddenly I had a profitable business!”
I notice the retro-looking label on the Vermouth bottles. “This is my village in southern Italy. You can see the square where I played football as a kid.” Clearly family is important to Giancarlo.
“My grandmother very much inspired me,” he reveals. “She used to serve my father a Bianco vermouth every Sunday – and my wife has been very supportive.
“She initially encouraged me to make my dream a reality, and produce my own artisanal Vermouth range.”
Every table at THE BAR has a collection of photo postcards with each of the 15 Mancino cocktails. As we are chatting, I’m enjoying a delicious Champagne Julep (Lanson Black Label Brut/goji berries liqueur/strawberries/caster sugar/fresh mint leaves) and have segued on to a wonderfully refreshing Basilico Mojito.
Giancarlo’s love of the botanicals: flowers, herbs spices and roots is legendary. Maybe he was a monk in a past life? “I love Japan so much I think I was a Samurai,” he smiles. Mancino is certainly the Samurai of Vermouth.
So what’s the essential ingredient for a good hotel bar? “Good visibility, great glassware and superb service,” he tells me. “And keeping the cocktails bespoke and craft. It’s important to keep a sense of uniqueness.”
Giancarlo Mancino has certainly created his USP with his superb range of botanical cocktails at THE BAR. It’s hard to leave but I have a dinner reservation here at The Athenaeum. So Basilico Mojito in hand, I bid adieu to the master mixer and head for the Galvin restaurant on the ground floor of the hotel.
If you’re a foodie you need no introduction to the Michelin-starred Galvins (Bistrot de Luxe, Galvin La Chapelle and Galvin HOP). Brothers Chris and Jeff have created an all-day dining offering at The Athenaeum that includes breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, room service – and dinner.
I’ve an early sitting and the restaurant is quiet and peaceful – perfect for an early evening catch up with an old friend. The menu features a welcoming British influence, in addition to Galvin favourites such as the Galvin smoked salmon and steak tartare. The wide range of starters is very appealing. I loved the flavours and textures of my black figs, goat’s curd and Woodall’s Cumbrian air-dried ham.
My friend opted for the poached lobster and cauliflower salad. Both light on the palate and a perfect segue into the fish pie – and for me the Denham Estate venison with blackberries and celeriac. Cooked to perfection, the meat melted in my mouth. In the name of research I also tried my friend’s fish pie, which was creamy and full of chunky fish pieces. My wine – a Côtes de Rhône was the ideal accompaniment.
Dessert treats include sticky toffee pudding and Valrhona chocolate mousse. I made for the sorbet while my friend relished her floating island with vanilla and blackberries.
Superb and attentive service, combined with the masterful creations from the Galvin kitchen ensured a memorable and fun evening. Stylish and glamorous, and without pretension, THE BAR and Galvin at The Athenaeum are a welcome and sophisticated addition to the Mayfair restaurant scene.
How and Where
The Athenaeum Hotel & Residences: Located in Mayfair, The Athenaeum Hotel & Residences has 164 bedrooms, including 12 suites, 18 townhouse residences and The Penthouse Suite. The Penthouse Suite is available from £2,280 inc VAT
Where: 116 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 7BJ Tel: +44 (0)20 7499 3464
How: Email galvin@athenaeumhotel.com, phone +44 (0) 20 7640 3333 or visit athenaeumhotel.com
by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
Gina Baksa meets celebrity chef and global entrepreneur Wolfgang Puck and chats food, celebrities, life and business over afternoon tea at CUT, his London restaurant at the 45 Park Lane hotel, Mayfair
Wolfgang Puck is one of the world’s most successful chef-entrepreneurs. From his early start peeling vegetables at a local restaurant in Austria (his mother was a chef) to creating iconic LA restaurants Spago and Chinois, as well as over 100 restaurants across world, consumer products, a TV series and syndicated column – the main is a phenomenon.
He is also the founder of Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group, Wolfgang Puck Catering and Wolfgang Puck Worldwide. Widely recognised for his nurturing and encouragement of new chef talent (including CUT 45 Park lanes Executive Chef David McIntyre), Wolfgang recently received the exceptional Cateys 2018: International Outstanding Achievement Award.
He opened first flagship restaurant, Spago in LA back in 1982 and has been on the fast track to success ever since, catering for the Oscar’s Governor’s Ball for the last 24 years and only the second chef ever to receive a star on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame.
I met the 69-year-old phenomenon in London recently for his Chinois on Main Pop Up at CUT at 45 Park Lane. Marking the 35th birthday of his successful Santa Monica restaurant, Wolfgang brought his Asian Fusion cuisine to London.
We’re upstairs at Bar 45, a glamorous bar that has the largest selection of American wines in the UK, including Wolfgang’s own Wolfgang Puck-Schrader ‘Beckstoffer Georgess III Vineyard, Napa Valley, of which only 80 cases were made.
He’s in his whites, looking fresh, relaxed and has the energy of a man half his age. I’m a little intimated – the man is a culinary idol.
“My group is arriving at 12,” he tells me over tea. “My fellow classmates from my Harvard business course. About three years ago a journalist asked me if I had fulfilled all my dreams. And I told him I had always wanted to go to Harvard.
“Then a few days later, Harvard Business School calls me up and asks me when I want to start!”
Wolfgang joined the University’s Owner President’s Management Program (OPM) which is one month over three years.
“I panicked at first,” he reveals. “I didn’t know how to use a computer. But it’s been brilliant – you stay and sleep in a dorm – like being at boarding school” he smiles. “As I’ve got my pop-up here at CUT they are all coming for lunch here about 120 here from all over the world. Next March is the last month. Then we have a graduation ceremony.”
So what has he got out of the Harvard experience so far?
I’ve learnt how to look at the business from the outside more and get input from different people on how to manage my company better. Also how to give people a clearer vision of what I want. And how to structure the company more efficiently.
Who’s your main right hand man?
Alex (Resnik) runs the restaurants and he’s responsible for their performance. He’ll give me suggestions if anything needs tweaking. We always want positive sales growth, so we sit down and discuss what’s needed.
Which restaurant is his best performing?
Number one is Spago in Singapore – that’s our best right now. It has a huge bar and lounge with 166 seats and an amazing location on top of the Marina Bay Sands hotel. Our second best is Spago in Beverley Hills. And the third is CUT in Las Vegas.
Why Chinois so popular?
Chinois was the first fusion restaurant in Los Angeles – it gave people a taste of something completely different. In the beginning, I’d never cooked traditional Chinese food and never used a wok. So I built an island kitchen at the restaurant. On one side I had three woks, on the other a wood burning stove and six flames. So that meant if I couldn’t use a wok I still had the flame!
Did the West Coast Asian influences inspired him to develop fusion cuisine?
Totally! The West Coast has so many great Asian influences: we have China Town, Korea Town… I wanted to cook using local ingredients but with flavours from different cultures.
And express my take on Chinese rather than using traditional recipes. For example instead of thickening a sauce with corn starch I use butter. And in certain situations I use cream. I definitely didn’t want stir-fried beef – enough LA restaurants are doing this. So I decided to make a New York steak, which Americans love, and then add an Asian-tasting sauce with it. So I caramelised shallots with some chilli flakes, added some soy sauce, some mirin and stock and reduced it then finished with a little butter.
It was a whole new flavour! What was also good was that we didn’t have the history. It would be hard to do that in Italy for example with such a rich tradition. Much more adventurous cooking originated from the west coast.
Had you got bored with Spago?
I opened Spago in West Hollywood, then another in Japan, and I remember being jetlagged in Japan seeing the same chairs, plates etc. and thinking I can’t continue to do this – bring out one after the other. I was always interested in Chinese food, so I decided to open my own Chinese restaurants. We trained a little bit at Spago – I tried out a few things and did it my way. It worked and became hugely successful.
His restaurant expansion has been incredible…
Yes it has but it’s happened over a long period of time. We didn’t expand and explode in 3 years. We’ve also expanded in different areas: upscale dining, airport restaurants, appliances and stuff, in supermarket foods. All different industry sectors.
Where does he get his energy from? Does he work out?
I have a personal trainer who comes two or three times a week when I’m in LA – and I have a gym in my house. And a tennis court too so I play regularly. I think it’s important when you get to a certain age to keep on moving.
Does he enjoy cooking when he’s at home? Or does he let his wife Gelila take over?
Gelila’s (designer and creative director at Wolfgang Puck) is a very good cook too and if you ask my kids who makes the better pasta they’ll tell you mum makes the best Bolognese sauce and the best lasagne.
Have his sons followed him into the industry?
One of my sons, Byron has followed me into the business. He went to Cornell Management School and I sent him to different restaurants to learn the trade. He trained at Guy Savoy in Paris and also at Nobu here in London when he was at high school. I wanted him to work somewhere we he would be inspired.
Will he take over the reins of the company?
Yes, that’s what I am hoping. If he takes over the company, in say 10 years or so, it’s important that he’s a good cook. So he can tell the chefs his vision, what direction he’s taking.
Do you follow modern trends in cooking?
We create a blend of tradition and innovation. That’s what works. An example is our restaurant The Rogue Experience. It’s a tiny restaurant with a kitchen on one side; the customers sit at the counter. We do about 15 to 18 dishes. I’m very impatient so they have to move fast. Six dishes an hour for this tasting menu. I have two chefs there. Then I bring in chefs from different restaurants. So generally four chefs are cooking for 8 customers.
An amazing dining experience! And the chefs cannot do anything that they do in their own restaurant. They have to be creative. David McIntyre (Executive Chef at CUT 45 Park Lane) is very talented – he’s constantly reinventing. Once many chefs reach the age of 40 they get into a pattern and don’t want to change. I want them to continue to create.
Who has inspired him?
I got inspired at the age of 19 when I worked at Beaumanière (Provence) and I told myself I wanted to be like the owner-chef Raymond Thuilier. He was in his 70s at the time and still so passionate about food, about the ingredients and cooking. And also about hospitality. He owned the hotel and the restaurant. Picasso ate there, so did Queen Elizabeth it was a Micheln 3 star.
Why did he leave Europe for the States?
I was working at Maxim’s in Paris and everyone said to me: ‘You’re young. What are you gonna do?” My friend was the pastry chef there and he told me I’d make much more money and have a better life in the States.
So when the opportunity came, I went. I was living in Monaco and a motor racing fan, so when somebody offered me a job in Indianapolis I took it! At that time it was complete culinary backwater. From there I moved to California after I got my Green Card.
We lost Tony Bourdain and Paul Bocuse this year. Did he know them?
I was more friendly with Paul than with Tony. I did a TV show with Paul at his restaurant and at his country home. And he came to cook with us at Spago in Beverly Hills and Las Vegas; he was very generous and very sweet. And I’m good friends with his son Jérome.
Tony and I had a little disagreement about fois gras once. He was working at Les Halles in New York – way before he became famous. He chided me for caving in to public demand and taking fois gras off the menu. I told him I didn’t want people demonstrating outside my restaurant. And that when he was running a successful restaurant himself he’d be better qualified to give me advice!
Is fois gras still off the menu in California?
Yes, it is, but for the Chinois pop-up here in London it’s on. Fois gras is still in demand so we give the customers what they want. They love it. The pop up is very successful, it’s a good mix of old and modern. The signature dish is Chinois Lobster. People also love the sizzling fish, and the pineapple and fois gras.
What are the qualities of a good leader?
I think you have to really tell people your vision very clearly. Then train them over the years; establish a culture and hold people responsible. For example if David here at CUT 45 Park Lane wants to change the fish, he doesn’t have to call me and ask me if he can change it. He’s been with me 23 years. If he can’t do it alone then he shouldn’t be working with me.
I want each restaurant to be independent. They can play with the menu to a certain point, but they have to have clear guidelines. I want them to own their creation. The individual chef in each restaurant knows much better than head office what their customers want.
Many of your staff have been with you for years?
Yes, we have great continuity with our staff. I have two chefs – one in LA and the other in Vegas who have been with me many years who oversee the openings. They work with the local chefs who are ultimately responsible. They have autonomy.
Do you still source locally?
Yes, I love it. Even at home I go to the local markets. Every Sunday in Beverley Hills there’s a little farmer’s market in Santa Monica. I love the smells; same with the fish market. I tell all the chefs it’s all about the ingredients. You must know the produce inside out.
Did growing up on a farm help him hone his nose for good produce?
Yes, I was always close to the farmers. At Ma Maison in LA where I used to work I’d go to a farm south of LA and I’d get the perfect ripe strawberries; the perfect green beans. It was amazing. I learnt how to smell the produce. Just like where I grew up. When I was a boy my mother just went to the vegetable garden, picked 5 vegetables and made a soup.
Was your mother a chef in your home town? Did she inspire you to cook?
Not my home town but nearby at a resort hotel on a lake. She totally inspired me to cook. When I was 12 or 13 I would work at the hotel and spend time in the kitchen with the pastry chef. I loved sweets so it was perfect.
Did your mother live to see your success?
Yes, totally. And she was very proud of me. She was a quiet woman. My step father was another matter. Probably bi-polar and very boisterous but it wasn’t diagnosed in those days. He was crazy and used to drink a lot. Not good.
There’s the story that you were fired from your job and you went down to your local river to end it all?
Yup that’s true, I tried to jump into the river. But then I had the thought to go back to work. Maybe my boss was having a bad day and he’d let me stay. So I did. The apprentice above me hid me in the cellar and I peeled all the vegetables. A few weeks later the chef came down and ask me why I was there when I had been fired. I told him I wasn’t leaving and stood my ground. So I tell everyone now – never take no for an answer!
So what’s next for you – personally and professionally?
Right now, it’s exciting for me to see how Byron grows into the business. He’s cooking at Rogue now. He’s not yet an experienced chef but he has a great imagination. And he’s not afraid to ask for advice from the other chefs. He’s also great on TV – he’s appeared with me on the Shopping Channel and he’s not fazed by celebrities. When I was his age I was so shy. He’s very confident.
Right now I’m trying to find a balance between my professional and my private life. We only live once and are here for such a short time, So I’ve decided to take July off. Before, I used to take just 10 days’ vacation a year. Crazy. My wife is very happy about my decision.
What do you do when you take a break? Can you ever switch off?
You know I can compartmentalise everything really well. When I’m at work I concentrate on work. When I’m at home with the children I don’t have my phone with me. I don’t want to be interrupted. Even when I’m in a restaurant I don’t answer it.
My wife and I play tennis; we love art and go to the local galleries. You have to have common interests with your partner. My wife loves fashion so I’ll take her to Paris for the shows. She sees it with a friend and I hang out with my friends in a café. Perfect!
Fashion is a bit like our industry – we both have to constantly reinvent ourselves and be creative.
Is that the key to your fulfilment, being so creative?
Yes, and I always think I can do better. A perfectionist? I tell everyone that I’m easy-going as long as you do it the way that I want! Mostly I give positive feedback to my staff. I just tell them how I want them to do it without being mean. It’s so much better. I reward them so they feel good about it. It’s not good to hammer on someone.
Life is energy. If you do something good you get so much good energy back it makes you feel good and not tired. It’s like putting gas in a car.. and not running out, he smiles.
So for me to be in the kitchen, and to be with my customers feeds my energy. I meet so many fascinating people from Presidents to royalty to the Hollywood crowd.
How do you compartmentalise it all? How do you stay calm?
I sit and think. They think I’m daydreaming but I’m often thinking about what to do next. How to improve the business. It’s important not to sit still. This time next year the world will be a very different place. Everything is changing so fast. Who would have thought that everything we need is in our telephone? Each time I see a red phone booth in London I take a photo. Look what’s replaced it!
What does he think about the TV celebrity chef trend?
Much of the shouting and buffoonery is an act. You’d get sued for harassment in the States if you did that. In 1982 at Spago we had an open kitchen. So we had to.be nice as our guests could hear everything. The open kitchen is a good thing. Everyone has to look smart, shave and have good ingredients. And they have to cook it right as the customer can come up to the counter and tell you it’s not good! We are far more visible now.
I remember I cooked squab once for Lauren Bacall. She accosted me saying you don’t know how to cook this bird it’s still pink! And I told her yes, that’s the way you should eat it. She loved us but she was tough. She used to come to Chinois straight from the airport before she went to her hotel.
Will you continue to open more restaurants?
Yes, for sure. Hopefully another one in London, I like it here. My sons may go to school here, so I’ll be coming more often. We are opening another restaurant in Orlando in September this year. Then another one by next March in DC. We have no plans to stop expanding. Some restaurants fall by the wayside; the leases expire. We try to move forward slowly. As long as I have the talent to work with me we will continue to expand.
Is it hard to find good chefs?
We have a lot of cooking schools in the States, but it’s still difficult to find a good chef. The CIA (Culinary Institute of America) is in Napa Valley and we also have Johnson & Wells which is part of the university in Providence RI. To find people who are passionate and people who want to work is not that easy.
Does the younger generation of chefs want a different lifestyle?
Yes for sure. They don’t care so much about the money but they want a lifestyle balance. When we were young we had to work as hard as possible to make money. We didn’t think about having a ‘lifestyle’. When I was 25 I knew I had to work two jobs so that one day I could open a restaurant. So I did. Now people want free time and a better work-life balance.
This change of lifestyle also gives the partners of chefs the chance to do something too. Not just look after the children. It used to be so one-sided for women it was like oppression. They had to stay at home and never had anything to show for it. Making your own money and being creative makes you feel good about yourself.
What advice do you have for young chefs now?
I think that today the way everything is going so fast. Just be patient and learn while you work for someone else. Make your mistakes at someone else’s expense before breaking out on your own. Come and work at CUT and you’ll know what to do when you leave.
A lot of people forget how to learn to do the basics. They might be able to cook 10 dishes really well but after a while it gets boring. Or they want to be celebrities and appear on TV.. Nobody wants to really put in the work anymore to get there. They want instant fame and instant riches.
I teach new chefs about hospitality. Cooking with food is one thing but how you treat your guests is just as important. That’s why the dining room staff and the cooking staff must have a good relationship. If not, the customers will sense it. They must be as proud as the chefs to bring the food to our guests. And to make our guests feel good.
You’ve cooked at the Governor’s Ball at the Oscars for the last 24 years…
We love it. And we are so organised its run like clockwork. It’s easy for me because I just decide what we’re gonna cook, and how we’re gonna do it and my team executes.
Do the celebrities usually want the same dish?
Some want the classic chicken pot pie with black truffle – Barbra Streisand always ask for it. As do the older board members. We make our pizzas, our smoked salmon Oscars, our golden chocolate Oscars. W mix tradition with new ideas.
You know once you know them they’re just people. Some are excellent at what they do. Some aren’t. Some are nice. Some not so nice. To me money doesn’t the man; man makes the money. Look at Federer.. he’s a very charming down-to-earth guy. He could be all pompous but he’s not.
What’s the key to success?
If you love what you do and you’re not afraid to work you can become successful. Hospitality is a tough job. I remember all those years ago when I started at Beaumaniere in Provence, Tuillier was already 72 years old. He was so passionate about the hotel and the cuisine. He was a great mentor. I was 19, he was 72.
One of my Harvard professors, Boris Groysberg told me that now I am older I have to get younger men on board. The Harvard course has younger guys too so I can learn so much.
So I ask my son what he would like to drink when he goes out. His group are in their early 20s… it’s very different. They don’t go out to eat one big meal. They might go to a lounge for a cocktail. Then meet some friends at another place. Then maybe go to another place for a meal. Go home at 2am and eat in three different places. It’s a new paradigm. They are future customers.
Who have you met in your life that has had a lasting impression?
One person from my Beaumanière days. He was a famous actor and had just made a movie and he was so handsome and he had a beautiful girlfriend. Now he’s the Godfather of our children. His name is Sidney Poitier. When Obama got in I told him: Sidney you have to go and teach Obama how to speak. He’s such a beautiful gracious man and a good friend.
He actually asked me if he could be my sons’ godfather. What an honour. He likes coconut sorbet so I often take him some. I was so lucky to be around at that time when Hollywood was a different place. I used to play tennis with Gene Kelly.
Do you have plans to write your memoir?
Well, I’m having a meeting in New York next week with Ruth Reichl, former editor in Chief of Gourmet Food magazine. She knows me very well. I have so many stories! Somehow I wasn’t intimated by these stars and they trusted me. I was always discrete.
How did you meet your wife?
Gelila was a customer. I just chatted her up. I talk to everybody. As well as being the company’s designer and creative director, my wife helps a school in Ethiopia – she supports 800 children there, and started with 20 children about 20 years ago. The kids have grown up and we went to their graduation ceremony. They are all such amazing children. It’s so important to give back. Especially when you have been given so much.
Where and How
Where: 45 Park Ln, Mayfair, London W1K 1PN Website: dorchestercollection.com How: Phone 020 7493 4545 or visit dorchestercollection.com to make a booking.
by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
An oasis of peace among hectic Fez Medina, I discover Palais Amani’s world of calm elegance
Regarded as the historical and cultural capital of Morocco, Fez is finally breaking out of the shadows of its more well-known southern neighbour Marrakech and having its own moment in the African sun. Thanks to new flights from across Europe and a new internal flight from Marrakech, this vibrant northern city is more accessible than ever. Known for its vibrant car- and moped-free souks and stunning architectural heritage, Fes’s star is deservedly on the ascendant.
This is my first visit to Morocco and with adrenaline-fuelled excitement, I’m gazing out through double-height windows across a stunning palace Riad courtyard from my second floor luxury suite.
But this is no ordinary suite – I’m luxuriating in the impressive 100m2 Grand Suite at the beautiful Palais Amani – an oasis of calm located just inside Fez Medina. Encompassing the entire south wing of the first floor, the suite’s highlight features include his-and-hers dressing rooms tucked discreetly behind the capacious superking bed, Berber carpets, sparkling stained glass windows that capture the mid-afternoon light, a massive plunge bath fit for a ménage à quatre, vintage tiled flooring and an ante room with desk, sofa and TV. Nespresso with complimentary Vivalto and Lungo pods are standard. As is a welcome kettle and complimentary water.
And it’s this jaw-dropping tranquil spaciousness that beckons my Ryanair-scrunched body to stretch and dance and whirl like a dervish. This suite is easily four times the size of my London flat. Ceilings are a vertiginous 10m tall. I feel like I’m in a cathedral.
Located at one of the most significant entrances to Fez Medina, the Palais Amani is a former 17th-century palace. Rebuilt in the 1930s, this stunning listed building with its Art Deco touches has undergone complete refurbishment and is breathtaking. Home to 15 suites and bedrooms, it offers guests a tranquil spacious haven – an elegant mix of traditional and modern aesthetics – replete with restaurant, roof top bar and cookery school and spa-hammam.
I’ve arrived by taxi from the new Fez-Saïs airport. A massive light and airy space with beautiful Moorish design and just a 30-minute taxi ride from the Riad. Collected by a uniformed Palais Amani host from the Oued Zhoune car park just 50m from the hotel (outside the car-free Medina), he helps me with my luggage up a narrow alleyway and we enter via an inconspicuous door.
Wealth is reserved for the inside of houses in Morocco and the Palais Amani is no exception. This opulent building’s focus is inward: every window and door and plaster filigree looks towards the beautiful garden and fountain with its mosaic tiles, hand-carved panels, and chirruping birds who also inhabit this sanctuary. I savour a refreshing mint tea before exploring the Medina.
It’s the beginning of Ramadan and many of the shops are closed, however this hasn’t reduced the number of people meandering among the 10,000 narrow alleyways. I’m initially overwhelmed by the movement, sounds and aromas. The Medina alone has around 9000 shops… this rabbit warren of streets is replete with stray cats and kittens, foodstuffs, caged chickens, overladen donkeys (if you’re an animal lover or rescuer then look away), slabs of meat and fish on counter tops, flies a-buzzing. I’ve never seen anything like it.
Some locals are happy for you to take photos; others eschew being part of yet another influencer’s Insta feed and will wave you off with a stern look. I pass groups of Chinese tourists their noses covered with sprigs of mint or wearing face masks. As its Ramadan – no eating or drinking between sunrise and sunset – there are fewer tourists. My best advice is to walk slowly, savouring the visual, aural and auditory feast in front of you. And practice your bargaining chops with humour and grace. It’s an important part of Moroccan culture and the storeholders expect you to enter the game too.
Shops I visit include L’art mauresque at 50 Rue Jamma Laranja lablida and there are many stalls selling argan oil too – head for Herborite Divan for good products. My guide takes me to a superb carpet shop – Dar Ibn Khaldoun at 45 Derb Ben Chekroune Lablida. Expect to be shown myriad varieties of silk and Berber wool… all for a fraction of the price you’ll see in London showrooms. But be prepared to bargain hard.
The owner is charm personified and he knows how to get a deal. Unless you are a serious buyer/collector, eschew the mint tea offered and decide on your budget before you even enter the emporium. Begin your offer some way below that until you reach your desired price. And don’t go above. For lamps and tea pots head for Le Tresor Mirinides owned by Youssef Lamrini.
Unless you’re feeling unadventurous, don’t bother with a guide (he’ll only take you to friends selling carpets, scarves etc) and instead venture out and explore the Medina yourself. Located inside the ancient walled part of the city Fez Medina is Africa’s largest and its alleys are filled with food stalls, pop-up counters, established shops selling spices and new fusion restaurants. It’s perfectly safe – I was travelling solo. And since it’s pedestrian and donkey and carts only, you won’t be looking over your shoulder every two seconds to avoid mopeds and carts as I did in Marrakech. It actually feels like Marrakech probably was around 20 years ago. So visit Fes now before it bends to the demands of tourism.
The special Ftour or Iftar – the meal that breaks the daily fast – is served at Palais Amani between 7.30pm to 8.30pm. I choose from the à la carte menu and eat in the shady cool courtyard with birds my aural accompaniment, alongside a fine Moroccan Volubilia – my first taste of Moroccan wine. Restaurant Eden at the Palais Amani prides itself on using fresh, local provenance and the menu reflects this with my delicious entrée of beet apple and nut salad, followed by fish of the day with slow-cooked veggies tagine style, finishing with a delicious tarte au citron for dessert.
Watching the sun set from the Palais Amani rooftop with the aural backdrop of the muezzin call to prayer (Adhan) was intoxicating. An ancient call (five times a day) that ignited long-distant memories of another time and place.
I found myself on the rooftop again the following morning when I joined the Palais Amani’s cooking lesson – at their new purpose-built Fez Cooking School with superb views over the Medina and beyond. The school offers visitors to Fez a unique insight into this magical city combining a foodie tour of the medina followed by a cookery class.
Once at my cooking station (gas hob, thank God) all my ingredients are laid out ready. Charming Head Chef Hassim gives me a Fez and apron and I begin prepping the beautifully colourful fresh veggies which I then stacked wigwam-like in my tagine. Cooking the aubergine on a raw flame until it crisped then scooping out the warm insides was amazing. And I proudly ate my creation on the roof terrace – such fun!
Earlier I’d joined Chef Hassim for a fascinating and fast-paced amble through the souks, gathering prime ingredients among the 10,000 alleyways. The cooking school is available to all guests and includes a two-hour tour of the souks, including a breakfast soup treat, a mint tea expert and plenty of stalls selling cakes.
All guests on the Cookery Break take home a Palais Amani apron, a mini basket of spices and detailed recipe sheets to recreate the new recipes back home. Cookery classes include: Tajine and side dishes (€97 private or €77 part of a group) or Moroccan breads and pastries (€67 private). Palais Amani can also arrange wine demonstrations and tastings, city tours and even classes in henna painting. As well as recommending trustworthy craftsmen in the souks.
In addition to the Palais Amani’s own restaurant Eden, there are excellent local restaurants to explore too. At nearby Dar Roumana (+212 (0) 535 635524), French chef Vincent Bonnin, who trained at Michelin-starred restaurants, dishes up two- and three-course menus of prettily plated Mediterranean-inspired cuisine.
The menu changes daily, based on what looks good at the market that day. The restaurant is closed on Mondays, and it’s best to book in advance. In the heart of the medina, NUR (+212 (0) 694277849) offers a contemporary take of traditional Moroccan meals from the Middle Atlas Mountains. Take a seat in the chic black-and-white dining room; dishes change daily depending on what fresh fare catches the chef’s eye at market.
There is a small café on a square near the Chaabine that is on the first floor overlooking a newly restored Fondouk; the tea is brewed in a large copper urn with huge bunches of mint and alarming amounts of sugar, but the smell is wonderful like mint imperials spearmint and almost as vivid green when poured from a height into a large glass.
Moi Anan, a tiny Thai restaurant (and boutique) in the medina that has delicious dishes should you fancy a break from the local delicacies.
Very close to the Palais Amani is a bazaar called Ali’s Art gallery. It’s very Tardis-like in that once through the doors it goes from floor-to-floor and room-to-room each overflowing with the most incredible works of art, furniture, jewellery, mirrors; an absolute Aladdin’s cave.
Farther afield, don’t miss the extraordinary Roman ruins at Volubilis – the best preserved in North Africa, boasting amazing mosaics – while the Atlas Mountains offer inspiring hiking trails and unbeatable views across the desert back to Fez, as well as the opportunity to visit a rural mountain village or two. And of course the enigmatic blue city of Chefchaouen is a must-see.
An oasis of peace among hectic Fez Medina, Palais Amani’s calm elegance, tranquil courtyard and rooftop, as well as superb service and outstanding rooms and suites makes for a truly memorable stay in Fez.
Where & How
Where: Palais Amani, 12 Derb El Miter, Oued Zhoune, Hay Blida, Fez Medina, Morocco
How: Phone +212 5 35 63 32 09, email contact@palaisamani.com or visit palaisamani.com.
Getting there: Direct international flights to Fez from many European destinations. Taxis from Fez Saïs Airport take around 45 minutes. Fez station is 15 minutes’ drive from Palais Amani and linked to Tangier, Casablanca and Marrakech.
Cost: Rooms rate includes breakfast. From €160 for a regular room. Grand Suite from €350.
by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
I continue my tour of Kenyan Fairmont properties with a stay at the iconic Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club
High above Nairobi, our female Air Kenya pilots give us astonishing views from our 18-seater, Twin Otter 300 plane over the city’s western suburbs before the landscape changes to dry brown scrub, then pockets of farmland criss-crossed by red-earth tracks turning greener as we neared the slopes of Mount Kenya – the Magic Mountain. For that is certainly what Mt Kenya is. Our first sight of her through the sun haze is breathtaking: snow-covered jagged peaks are the plug of an ancient now-extinct volcano. The 17,058ft-mountain looks ethereal.
No wonder local tribespeople consider Mt Kenya to be sacred. A protected area since 1949, it became a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 1973 and a World Heritage Site in 1997. Today the whole area is managed by the Government-funded Kenya Wildlife Service.
Few hotels can boast they have the Equator running through their grounds, but such is the fortune of the historic Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club near Nanyuki in East Africa. This award-winning 100-acre resort estate on the slopes of Mount Kenya has a fascinating history. Formerly the retreat of Hollywood star and game hunter William Holden, who sold the Safari Club estate to previous owner Adnan Khashoggi, this idyllic Kenyan hideaway still feels like a family home – albeit on a super-grand luxury scale.
By the time we land at Nanyuki’s grass airstrip, Mount Kenya – usually shrouded in fog and clouds – is clearly visible. An auspicious portent on our arrival at the Equator. The air smells fresh; there’s a slight wind to cool the heat; the sky an iridescent blue. Acacia trees stand sentinel alongside the newly built runway. I inhale deeply like a free diver re-surfacing. There’s magic in the air here.
We arrive in minutes at the resort’s grand gated entrance. Security is tight at all Kenya’s Fairmont properties: The guards wave us through and we enter an enchanted kingdom. The drive to the main house passes the stables, flame trees, more acacia and thorn trees, lush manicured lawns and gardens, vivid purple bougainvillea and orange bird of paradise. To greet us, a colourful group of Kikuyu dancers dressed in traditional costume lead us singing and dancing to the exquisite Rose Garden for a very special Equator Ceremony and presentation of our Equator crossing certificates.
The Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club lies at 7,000ft and straddles the Equator, so guests can spend part of their stay in the Southern Hemisphere and part in the North. Our guide Charles demonstrates how water drains clockwise in the northern hemisphere and anti-clockwise in the southern. It’s known as the Coriolis effect. How extraordinary to be in a garden divided by the Equator. The varying north and south energies are tangible here.
The Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club offers guests a haven of tranquillity with 120 luxurious rooms. The main house, with its 1950’s colonial aesthetics and superb rooms and suites, an arc of independent cottages (huge two-bedroom luxury bungalows) and additional bungalows in a forested area of the estate. It’s the perfect setting to marry the love of your life (the Signature Suite is a honeymoon favourite). And the perfect solo escape… as I discovered on entering my gorgeous two-bedroom bungalow. Discreetly tucked away along the driveway to the right of the main house, it boasted a massive lounge space with working fireplace (lit each night, thank you). And two beautiful bedrooms each ensuites with capacious bath tubs and showers. And all the amenities you’d expect at this level, including two hot water bottles discreetly placed in my bed each evening.
The expansive private terrace looked out across to Mt Kenya across manicured lawns and a large pond that came alive each afternoon with birds. And to my left partial views of the main house. The most beautiful escape. And I was only a few hundred yards from William Holden’s former cottage. Apparently, he set up a telescope in the garden, so he could keep an eye on proceedings at the main house.
The silence is so welcome. No cars here and the only noise you’ll hear during your stay are the bird calls from over 50 species: semi-tame sacred ibises, marabou storks, peacocks, Egyptian geese and lots of beautifully coloured smaller birds who approach the lunch and breakfast tables in anticipation. Other resident animals include two gorgeous black Labs, Tusker and Grammy who appeared to spend most of their day in blissed out repose.
We had lunch in the courtyard (intriguingly divided by the Equator line – we chose to eat in the Northern Hemisphere). The choice of food here was superb: hot and cold dishes, salads, soups, starters, an incredible array of desserts and fruits. And a meat grill with freshly barbecued cuts of chicken, lamb and beef. The pterodactyl-like Marabou storks with their grizzled heads waited patiently for titbits on the rooftops. They are the most extraordinary birds. They really do stalk when they walk.
Afterwards, I relaxed by the inviting outdoor pool, enjoying the spectacular views over sweeping terraced lawns towards the golf course and the rising majesty of Mt Kenya in the far distance. Of course, you could spend the whole time pool lounging, or relishing the spa treatments (great massages from Margaret) but there’s so much else to do. There’s a nine-hole golf course, a maze to get lost in, tennis and basketball courts, as well as horse-riding, mountain biking and nature walks. And fabulous bush dinners and game drives at Solio Game Reserve, Sweet Waters Game Reserve or further afield at Aberdare National Park and Samburu Game Reserve.
I took one of the mountain bikes around the estate and came across a group of Colobus monkeys playing tag in the trees. Black and white long-haired bodies leaping from branch to branch, their long white bushy tails like trailing scarves.
That evening we dined on succulent barbecued pork, beef, lamb, Berber chicken and marinated prawns on the lantern-lit pontoon deck over the pond. Warmed by the lively fire and fortified by Tusker beer, mains included pan-seared fish and delicious truffle mash, accompanied by fine local vintage wines and fabulous desserts (mousse, fudge, macaroons… The backdrop to our voices were fish and frogs in the lake below us, their grunts and croaks echoing around the estate giving the impression of much larger beasties.
After a sumptuous breakfast at the main house the following morning, we head for the Ol Pejeta Conservancy an hour’s drive from the hotel. Zebra, wild dogs and lions are here. As well as the world’s last-remaining three northern white rhinos and it’s a sanctuary for 113 critically endangered black rhinos and is the largest black rhino sanctuary in East Africa. Today the demand for ivory comes from Asia and the Middle East, where rhino horn is falsely considered to have medicinal properties and is used to make ornamental dagger handles. A kilo of rhino horn can fetch up to $60,000 on the black market. Ironically, rhino horn is just made of the same substance as human fingernails – keratin.
We were honoured to meet Baraka, the blind black rhino who lives on his own 100-acre enclosure. He has plenty of visitors and a specially designed platform affording a close-up experience with this remarkable animal. He was sleeping when we arrived, yet the brave keeper went down next to him to take photos.
In 1970 there were around 20,000 black rhinos living in Kenya. Due to poaching and drought there are significantly less. We next meet Sudan, the only remaining northern white rhino. Thought to be about 45, he’s an old fella, heavily protected. He’s not entirely alone, there are three female northern white rhinos here too, but they are not able to become pregnant. So, the ambitious plan to avoid complete extinction is to use in vitro fertilisation. Since writing this, Sudan has sadly died. Even more reason to protect these irreplaceable species.
Returning to the Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club for lunch we were treated to the most gorgeous dining setting in the exquisite Rose Garden. Beautiful arches and pergolas, running stream and indigenous trees providing shade, it felt like an English country garden. The perfect wedding location, we savoured tuna starters followed by an amazingly spiced vegetable curry with the best crème brulée. Magical.
Adjoining the Safari Club is an animal orphanage – part of the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy – and currently home to some 1200 animals. Privately owned and run it was founded by William Holden and Don Hunt in the Sixties, supported by Don’s wife Iris and actress Stefanie Powers. Recognised by the Kenyan government, the education centre receives visits from hundreds of school children each year. We wandered among orphaned ostriches, Mountain Bongos (forest antelopes), llamas, monkeys, cheetahs, baby buffalo and a giant tortoise. There are also cheetahs and lynx.
A combination of animal rescue, adoption and rehabilitation here has ensured the survival of the endangered and rare Albino Zebra. The conservancy which is spread over 700 acres is also home to Mountain Bongo breeding programme which has seen the population of the Bongo’s increase from 18 to 70 renewing hopes for their survival whose population was below 100 in the wild.
Photos of Hollywood stars who have visited the conservancy grace the walls, including Grace Kelly, and a very young John Travolta.
Having been thrown from horses as a kid, I faced my fear and actually enjoyed a 1:1 ride with horseman John before dinner. Riding next to the Safari Club was a great way to get closer to a herd of white zebra, many deer – and sneaky warthogs who hide in the long grass and scare the horses. My trusty steed was spooked, but luckily I was holding on tight. No bolting back to the stables this time.
We enjoyed a superb dinner on our final evening in the private dining room at Tusks.
Fire lit, we all gathered around an impressive antique dining table, like a scene from out of Africa. Executive Chef Picco truly worked his magic with a range of African, Indian and European-inspired dishes. Scallops starters followed by Salmon Wellington and a divine Pistachio and Coconut Ladoo. The flavours here are so fresh and flavoursome – what a joy to have local provenance.
Reclining on my bungalow lounger later that evening I stare up at the inky night sky. Lanterns flickering on the pontoon the only visible light. And the stars. Pure, blissful silence. If heaven is a place on Earth, then Fairmont Mt Kenya Safari Club is as close as I’ll get.
East Africa has cast her spell once again. A magical and unforgettable experience.
Where & How
Where: P.O Box 35, Mount Kenya, Nanyuki, Kenya
How: Please email kenya.reservations@fairmont.com, phone + 254 (0) 62 203 6000 or visit fairmont.com.
by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
I head to the Maasai Mara for a stay at the Fairmont Mara Safari Club
Vast yellow-green savannah below, bright blue skies above, we’ve taken off from Nanyuki on the slopes of Mt Kenya on our way south west, across the Aberdare National Park and Mau Forest to the Maasai Mara National Reserve, near the border with Tanzania. Just 60 minutes later we’re touching down on the bumpy grass airstrip at Ngerende in the Mara.
Ancestral homelands to the Maasai tribespeople (‘mara’ is Maasai for spotted), the landscape here is a mix of trees, scrub and savannah. Replete with the Big 5, the most popular visiting season is during the annual Great Migration between July and October, where wildebeest, zebra and Thomson’s’ gazelles running the gauntlet of Nile crocodiles in the Mara River to reach the fertile grasslands in Kenya.
A group of lithe Maasai tribesmen meet us off the plane, and I am escorted hand-in-hand to a clearing where I attempt to join them in their spectacular jumping. These energetic dancers in their bright red shukas (the colour apparently scares lions) adorned with beautiful necklaces and jewellery are breathtaking.
The Fairmont Mara Safari Club enjoys a privileged location on the banks of the Mara River in the north-western corner of the Maasai Mara Game Reserve. Surrounded on three sides by the hippo and croc-filled river, this is luxury glamping. My spacious tent is fully powered, with king-size four-poster bed, shower, coffee-maker and ample wardrobe space. Decorated with beadwork and tribal art, there’s a relaxing outside deck for watching the hippo and crocodile action in the river below. Some tents have their own private dining space – choose Number 46 for that heavenly experience – it enjoys superb views of the Mara River and is discreetly sited away from other guests.
The main lodge at the Fairmont Maasai Mara Safari Club has a beautifully cool, spacious lounge and reception area, with comfy sofas, an inviting fireplace, tribal art and a rustic use of glass and local mahogany. There’s a library here and computer room and it’s a welcoming, light-filled space. Wi-Fi is only available at reception, which makes digital detox so much easier.
The inviting outdoor pool near the main restaurant provided a welcome cool-down before lunch. It’s also near the massage rooms where I enjoyed a superb reflexology treatment the following day with therapist Liz.
Osotua – the main restaurant – has extensive indoor and outdoor seating on a deck overlooking the river. Food is buffet-style with a generous selection of salads, pasta, meat and fish dishes. We ate only locally sourced organic food together with veggies from the Safari Club’s own organic garden. They also cultivate the most succulent chillies.
Our first game drive is at 3pm and I’m beyond excited. Led by Henry, our brilliant driver and guide we head out of camp into the lush savannah. It’s much greener than I’d expected. Zebra are abundant here, eating the tips and stems of the tall grass and so exposing the lower leaves for the wildebeest, who in turn prepare the protein-rich shoots and herbs for the Thomson’s gazelles.
The 360-degree views here are incredible. For an urban dweller like myself the sense of freedom is exhilarating: fresh air, clear blue skies and just animals and stunning landscapes for hundreds of miles. Our Landcruiser is the perfect height for game viewing: first zebra silhouettes against acacia trees and the miles of grassland and Aitong Hills behind. Then we approach a group of wildebeest, their rounded humps reminiscent of a Lascaux cave painting. Beautiful zebras these, each with unique black brushstrokes across their strong bodies. Graceful giraffe in solo and pairs, cantering across the green landscape.
We approach a solo water buffalo, his horns positioned like a judge’s wig, staring at us imperiously from a thicket. Then a surprise appearance from a beautiful jackal scampering
around the vehicle. We are close enough to touch its bushy fox-like tail, as it runs among carcases from previous kills. Then seconds later – a male lion! Simba is asleep, completely relaxed flat on his back. Legs akimbo, enormous paws resting on a full stomach. He’s only a few feet from the Landcruiser. My heart is booming. This is wildly exhilarating yet somewhat terrifying. Our Landcruiser is open on all sides. He could jump in any second. But the wildlife here are so used to the vehicles, this beautiful lion completely ignores us. Then we spot another male. Clearly a fighter, he has a deep gash above his left eye. What a beautiful, noble face. Then more.. two females resting, their cubs playing a few feet away.
Unexpectedly, Henry stops the Landcruiser next to a wooden shack. We’re in the Aitong Hills now, the flat savannah giving way to rocky outcrops and beautiful trees. “We’re going on a safari walk now,” he says. Dressed for cocktails, we are slightly bemused. The safari ‘hike’, to our delight, was a five-minute hill stroll towards a heart-stopping scene: two magnificent white rhinos, Kofi and Queen Elizabeth, grazing just a hundred feet in front of us. Kofi was born here in 2008 in the community-owned Ol Choro Oirogua Conservancy, and both he and his Queen are guarded 24/7 by machine-gun armed soldiers. They seemed little disturbed by our presence, and what a privilege to be so close to these endangered beauties.
Our sundowner on the slopes of the Aitong Hills was bathed in a magnificent red-orange sunset that lit up the horizon. Warmed by Amarula liqueur, we chat by the camp fire as darkness falls, reluctantly leaving since nightime and fire attract predators in the African bush. A delicious dinner at Osuata awaited us: fabulous cuts of barbecued meat as well as fish options and beautifully prepared fresh salads and desserts.
The grunts and splashing of wading hippos in the river below were my alarm clock the following morning for our dawn game drive. Heading out of camp we immediately spotted a hyena. Despite their negative reputation, they are quite impressive, and have even been known to gang up on lions, such is their tenacity. Henry spots a cheetah relaxing in the long grass and we drive over for a closer look. Alert, noble and built for speed. This cool cat is truly mesmerising.
We see plenty of warthogs too, which are found across the Mara. Such characters with their huge snouts, fearsome horns and amusing habit of eating on bended knees. And a peculiarly dainty walk. We also see monkeys, baboon, gazelles, zebra and more giraffe. The only wildlife we didn’t see were elephants, which were apparently grazing in another part of the Mara.
Our post-safari bush breakfast was set out on tables on a low ridge overlooking the River Mara. Warm sun, hot food and such a stillness in the magic of nature. We were so well looked after by John Kin’gori and chef David. Fruits, biscuits and delicious hot breakfast eggs, bacon, sausages. Priceless moments.
Then, the experience I’d been waiting for – a visit to the local Maasai village. We are met by the young son of the chief, ole Maitai, who leads us inside the compound of 22 mud-baked houses. The women in their brightly coloured shawls are caring for the excited children, while the men dance for us again. Their red shurkas astonishingly bright in the hot sun that catches their beautiful beaded jewellery. A couple are wearing long braids, signifying they have killed a lion. “With a spear,” they tell me proudly.
We’re given a fire-making demonstration and shown inside one of the dwellings, with its tiny windows and doors as protection from predators. A pot on an internal fire. Stifling heat. There’s a guest room here too. The Maasai are nomadic and demolish their houses before setting up camp again elsewhere. Goats and sheep are their lifeblood – quite literally. Apparently, this tribe doesn’t eat chicken but rear them to sell to other tribes to buy clothes for their children.
I play with the beautiful children before we’re taken to their ‘market’. Necklaces, spears, shields, bracelets, belts, jackal’s teeth and more laid out on the dry-baked ground. And some beautiful hand-made jewellery. Be prepared to bargain hard here.
A special treat awaited us that evening with a fabulous barbecued dinner on the hippo hide deck above the Mara, between tents 45 and 46. We could make out mother and baby hippos sploshing their way upstream. An amazing sight.
Our last morning game drive was followed by a relaxing sunbathe and swim at the pool. More energetic options are also available, including a two-hour walking safari – with an armed guard and two Maasai warriors to frighten off the lions. And bird walks with more than 70 species to spot. Alas, we didn’t have time for a dawn balloon safari, but I imagine that would be an amazing adventure, especially during the Great Migration.
My stay at the unique Fairmont Mara Safari Club was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that took me to the heart of Kenya: both her people and her wildlife. Mama Africa is already calling me back…
Where & How
How: Phone +254 717969611, email kenya.reservations@fairmont.com or visit fairmont.com.
Where: P.O. Box 58581, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya
by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
I escape to the south of France for a stay at the luxurious Domaine de Verchant – a grand boutique hotel near Montpellier with its own wine estate
It’s winter. Yet the special light in the South of France is enchanting. A golden glow highlighting the honey-coloured stone mansion here at the Domaine de Verchant Hotel & Spa. This magnificent wine estate-turned-boutique hotel is Montpellier’s only Relais & Chateaux property. Just 20-minutes from the Place de la Comédie, the main house and outbuildings are nestled among 11 hectares of sun-dappled vineyards.
The aroma of vine, oak and pine trees in the summer must be intoxicating. Today, north winds are upon us, yet the Domaine de Verchant’s public rooms and suites are well insulated and heated. I feel deliciously cocooned against the elements.
Near enough to Montpellier’s attractions yet far enough to feel timeless, the Domaine de Verchant is a luxury retreat in which to eschew all things digital, kick back and relax. Owners Chantel and Pierre Mestre are both keen travellers, which is reflected in the hotel’s exquisite interiors: bamboo, marble, dark tiles, dressed stonework and whitewashed walls: a marriage of east and west aesthetics with exquisite local craftsmanship. A backdrop of stone walls, weathered shutters, wooden flooring and mosaics with sophisticated modern amenities.
The couple both hail from wine-growing families and say that it was love at first sight when they first saw the Domaine de Verchant. “Its exceptional history going back over 2000 years, its extraordinary land and exceptional position on the doorstep of Montpellier seduced us.”
And I can see why.
The original wine estate was built on the remains of a Roman Villa – there’s evidence of it in a building block in the foyer, incredibly marked with the name of the family who lived there at the time.
The Domaine de Verchant’s 26 guest rooms and apartments (varying in size from 30 to 90 m2) have been beautifully restored with an elegance and sophistication. The main house, which is host to the smaller restaurant, has nine guest rooms and suites, while the outhouses, creatively re-imagined into stunning accommodations are home to another 14 guest rooms, including two apartments.
For extra space choose the 52m² Blossom Suite that overlooks the outdoor pool. It has its own roof terrace and private Jacuzzi – perfect for weekends à deux as you unwind on the giant futon and daydream across vineyard views. Architect Raymond Morel’s design is minimalist yet warm and sexy. A theme that is echoed in the reception, lounges and lounge bar.
My deluxe room was gorgeous: sleek yet welcoming with an abundance of natural materials. I loved the dressed golden stone walls, unique headboards, and the most comfortable bed. An open screen wall divides the bedroom and bathroom – the latter replete with the deepest bath (Starck for Duravit) and giant rain shower. It’s designed for romance. Relais & Chateaux amenities, soft towels and robes; and a bed I was reluctant to leave for dinner. I had lovely views across the front lawn, while the entrance had a dreamy vista across the vineyards.
I enjoyed supper in the Gourmet restaurant Verchant on the ground floor of the main house. There are several dining rooms from the open kitchen room, to the more intimate library where I dined. The Mediterranean menu from head chef Damien Cousseau is imaginative and uses local provenance. He has a penchant for fish and shellfish apparently, so the à la carte menu features tempting Brittany lobster, as well as oysters, and Dublin Bay prawns. The venison, with ginger bread, black cherry and parsnip and pistachio cream looked out of this world.
My surprise menu – comprising seasonal flavours of the month – was fascinating. The ball-shaped amuse bouches flavoursome: beetroot with Granny Smith apples, a decadent puffed pastry filled with cheese and béchamel. And a delicious beef ball. This was followed by an egg mimosa, in an egg shell. Smooth and rich.
This, my first experience of a surprise menu, was exciting: I loved my octopus, cabbage and green apple salad with a subtle mango curry dressing. Beautifully garnished with wild flowers. The main Simmental beef with mushroom sauce and jus was superbly cooked.
Alas I didn’t have room for the poached pear with home-made vervaine, coconut and dark chocolate ice cream, but it looked very tempting at a neighbouring table.
I sampled vines from the Verchant’s own vineyard: a fruity sparkling rosé, followed by an unctuous red. The Verchant vineyard dates back to the 19th century and is made up of Syrah and Grenache Med varieties, alongside the Bordeaux: Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. There is also a Petaile de Rose. Some 10% of the Verchant vineyards are devoted to white using Roussane, Viognier and Vermentino. The cellars are open to guests and well worth a visit.
To sleep in pitch darkness, and to wake naturally, without the roar of London traffic was complete bliss. There’s the option to have breakfast in your suite, but I took a seat in the Verchant restaurant, with glorious views over the gardens and the outdoor pool. This must be heaven in summer when you can take petit déjeuner on the terrace. Today we are inside and warm, next to the open kitchen.
I ventured for a spin on the Verchant’s electric bike after petit déjeuner. Not on the roads, rather a circuit on the vineyard tracks as the sun began to heat the cold morning air. The Domaine de Verchant is sited along the Languedoc-Roussillon route de vins, linking various Pic St Loup chateaux and wine estates with those of the Mejanelle, before entering the Pyrénées–Orientales. In total, there are 18 wine appellations in the area to explore.
The Domaine de Verchant is renowned for its beautiful 2000m² spa, and I thoroughly enjoyed my massage. Designed by architects Studio Marc Hertrich & Nicolas Adnet, this is a zen-like space that combines treatments, sports, wellness and relaxation against a stunning vineyard backdrop. The reception lounge is cosy with teas and nibbles, and there’s a sauna, steam room and indoor pool with counter-current lane. Products by Anne Semonin, Valmot, Theme and Toofruit skincare for children are also available to buy in the spa shop.
The new fitness area is the most expansive I have seen in any luxury hotel. A full 400m² of cutting edge TechnoGym stations and separate training areas. Personal coaching is also available. However, if teeing off is more your thing, there are three golf courses within easy reach of the Verchant: Montpellier Massane, the Grand Motte and Nîmes Campagne.
Lunch was a relaxing affair at the La Plage Dans Les Vignes – the Verchant’s second restaurant situated next to the spa. There’s a distinct beach vibe here, with vines replacing the sandy beaches of the Mediterranean (itself only 15-minute drive from the hotel). With a DJ bar, tapas and sunbeds for the summer months. The menu is distinctly French and very appetising: my cod fillet with artichoke and gnocchi puree was succulent followed by an enticing fig and noisette with lemon cream dessert.
It’s hard to leave the Verchant, but Montpellier was calling. Especially Ecusson, the delightful old town with its beautiful architecture, independent shops, funky bars and cafes, and a selection of renowned restaurants. Culturally Montpellier has a lot to offer visitors: The Fabre Museum is a must – with its Beaux Art collections, and I loved the Panacée (the contemporary culture centre) that supports local artists and visiting exhibitions. Just walking around the squares and admiring the monuments is a pleasure in itself.
That evening, Montpellier played host to its Son et Lumière light festival. Digital image mapping and music projected onto 11 of the city’s historic churches and monuments. I joined friends as we wandered in awe from the Arc de Triomphe, down Rue Foch to the Prefecture, then to the Musée Fabre and back up to the Cathedral, Place Notre Dame and the St Roch Church. Extraordinarily beautiful.
Supper was at the delightful Le Petit Jardin located at 20 Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau in Ecusson. The outside terrace in the summer is beautiful. Tonight, my friend and I were snugly in the main restaurant. Entrées included fish soup and onion tarte. I chose delicious langoustines on a bed of parmesan with pesto legumes. Followed by a succulent roasted sea bass with cardamom carrot puree and fennel. Desert was a magnificent Grand Marnier soufflé, all accompanied with a superb Marcel Richaud Côtes du Rhône.
Montpellier is an easy day trip to the Camargue, the Cevennes, as well as Avignon, and the beaches of the Med are just 6km from the city. You can even get to Barcelona from Montpellier St Roch station in 3.5 hours. Small wonder that Montpellier is the fastest growing city in France. Property is cheaper here than Provence, it has a great cultural life, climate and lifestyle – with a beautifully well-preserved medieval heart.
A stay at the Domaine de Verchant Hotel & Spa, combined with the cultural and gastronomic delights of Montpellier is the recipe for a perfect weekend retreat.
Where & How
Where: 1 Boulevard Philippe Lamour, 34170 Castelnau-le-Lez, France
How: Phone +33 4 67 07 26 00, email reservation@verchant.com or visit domainedeverchant.com.
