by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
Château de Fonscolombe is just 20 minutes’ drive from vibrant Aix en Provence, but the 12th-century château and its 30-acre park feel like another world
Imagine a luxuriously restored Provençal château just south of the Luberon; its 18th-century Quattrocentro magnificence brought back to life surrounded by a beautiful estate. More than 180 rare and mature trees breathe life – and tranquillity – into the sumptuous park, formerly the home of the de Saporta and Fonscolombe French noble families.
Three centuries of history are imbued in these walls and grounds – even Britain’s Queen Mother once stayed here and planted an Atlas cedar tree whose canopied branches continue to provide shade for guests. Her historic former bedroom – replete with canopied four-poster – is available for guests and enjoys stunning views over the surrounding parkland.
The 18-month restoration was carried out by the late and much-missed Hélène Martel-Massignac – the Château’s owner and former Caravelle Group CEO – together with a team that included architects Corrado de Giuli Morghen, alongside Arnaud Behzadi and Vincent Bastie from Artefak. The refined interiors are the work of talented Cathy Crinon.
The team has faithfully preserved the heritage of the château, while adding modern comforts such as air conditioning – in the new wing – and a dedicated spa on the lower ground floor where I enjoyed a sublime massage from Nicole.
There are 13 historical rooms and suites in the main house, with a further 37 rooms and suites in the newer wing with a classic yet modern design. My suite is beautifully appointed with windows looking out onto the gardens, two bathrooms and an elegant lounge area. The bed is divine. Extra special touches are the exquisite bouquet of flowers waiting for me, alongside a chilled bottle of Château de Fonscolombe’s own rosé. Each day there’s a thoughtful gift of chocolates and fruit.
I’m given a tour of the historic salons on Château de Fonscolombe’s ground floor: exquisite wallpaper, centrepiece chandeliers, artfully crafted doorframes and mirrors just some of the decor highlights among cosy seating areas. The furniture is partly original 18th century and adds a subtle sophistication to these grand, light-filled rooms.
There’s even a full-size billiard table – and a baby grand for ivory tinklers – while double-height impressive French doors open out onto a terrace with 180-degree views of the surrounding estate. The vistas are magical: Magnificent centuries-old cypress, oak, Lebanese cedars and plane trees stand sentinel among the extensive grounds, providing welcome respite from the Provençal sun for reading and dozing. To my left the al fresco tables for the l’Orangerie restaurant which has 120 covers (inside and out) for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
All my meals here are superb – a creative amalgamation of Provencal and international cuisine – and an inventive menu using local provenance where possible. Choose from succulent delights such as langoustines and fine tarte for starters, followed by a range of mains including lamb and mullet. The cheeseboard is delicious and includes local varieties such as Banon, Tomme de Provence, and Brousse du Rove, while desserts comprising flavours of chocolate, honey and ice cream are not to be missed. There are also various tasting menus that combine the best the Château has to offer.
I can confirm the breakfasts are Château de Fonscolombe are to die for: a generous smorgasbord buffet of charcuterie, breads, cheeses, yoghurts, juices, cereals, fruit and a variety of hot options including fabulous omelettes.
The Orangerie’s outdoor seating area continues next to a large ornamental pool that’s home to sunbathing frogs, a few fish and a splendid central fountain. You can enjoy lunch and pre-dinner apéros under the shade of a centuries-old cypress tree. I devour a tasty tapas menu here on my last evening. And in fact spend much of my stay under this beautiful tree, journaling and day dreaming. If only trees could talk…
I’m delighted to discover that these wonderful beings are also home to hundreds of bats. Don’t worry, you’ll never see them as the lights are purposefully dimmed in the park at night so as not to disturb these beautiful creatures. What you will see however, are their colourful yellow nesting boxes thoughtfully provided by the Fonscolombe gardeners.
Château de Fonscolombe is blessed to have its own vineyards producing red, white and rosé. The red, in particular is better than some St Emilion classics I’ve tasted. The Merlot, Chardonnay and Cab Sav plots are cultivated without the use of pesticides giving the Fonscolombe label ‘Organic Wine’ status. These Bouches du Rhône IGP varieties are available to purchase online at: fonscolombe.fr/en/winery.html.
I recommend taking a tour of the estate’s wine cellar located in the main house.
If you feel the need to work off the fabulous food and wine, dive into the pool for a few laps or borrow the Château’s bike for a spin around the local vineyards. You can also visit neighbouring Château de Paradis and enjoy – as I did – a tour of the cellars and a superb wine tasting.
Perhaps your beloved will be inspired by the romance of the setting at Château de Fonscolombe and pop the question. If so, there’s a chapel here in the park – a truly incredible setting for a marriage – just off the path to the swimming pool which is set well away from the main house. Sun loungers are plentiful and there’s a snack bar here to keep you fed and watered the whole day, manned by very helpful staff. Indeed, the wonderful people who work at Château de Fonscolombe are one of the main reasons for the hotel’s success: I have rarely met such a welcoming and friendly team. Nothing is too much trouble and they all ensured I had a wonderful stay. The Château is also a great place for children, who are well catered for – there’s even a children’s menu.
Nearby Attractions
Although many guests choose to stay at the Château for the duration of their stay, such is the magical allure of this tranquil luxury hotel and park, a short drive south and you’re in beautiful Aix en Provence. And just north of Fonscolombe you can take a slow drive around the Luberon visiting the hilltop villages of Bonnieux, Gordes and Roussillon. Then head west to Avignon and Isle Sur La Sorgue and enigmatic Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. The Côte d’Azur is also within easy reach from Château de Fonscolombe – just take the A58 south then head east on the A8 all the way to Cannes and beyond.
“Château de Fonscolombe was going to be a family home,” General Manager Cedric Cauvelier tells me over cocktails in the Orangerie. “But Mme Martel decided to open it to the public and so it became a 5-star hotel just last year.”
Thanks to its luxuriously appointed rooms and suites, an incomparable setting and world-class service, Château de Fonscolombe has become a media darling and popular with international guests, as well as weekenders from across Provence and farther. The Château is also a popular wedding and seminar location.
“We have 60% occupancy, which is unusual for a new opening,” Cedric reveals. “Most of our guest are from France, the United States, the UK, the rest of Europe, South America and many Asian countries.”
Originally intending to stay for just two nights, I extended my sojourn at Château de Fonscolombe by a further two days, willingly held captive by the hotel’s beauty and tranquillity – and its superb cuisine. I left recharged, happy and vowing to return. And I’m sure you will too.
Highly recommended.
Where & How
Cost: Prices from €325 for a Classic Room including breakfast. Every first Sunday of the month Brunch menu at €65.
Where: Route de Saint-Canadet, 13610 Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade, France
How: Please email contact@fonscolombe.fr, phone+33 (0) 442 211 313 or visit fonscolombe.fr to make a booking.
by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
Probably the most famous historic city in America, Boston is proud of its Mayflower Pilgrim roots and its dramatic role as a revolutionary against English colonial rule.
Massachusetts’s capital city on America’s north-eastern seaboard offers visitors an unparalleled historical legacy, timeless colonial architecture, world-class museums and a thriving cultural and gastronomic scene. And just a hop across the Charles River is Boston’s neighbour Cambridge, home to Harvard University.
Here are 5 best Boston attractions to visit during your next trip.
Boston’s coastal location alone makes it an attractive city to visit, with 37 islands to explore. Take a sail around the famous harbour, see a Boston Red Sox baseball game, follow the Freedom Trail and connect with the city’s revolutionaries, and enjoy the city’s rich cultural legacy and Colonial architecture.
Boston is seafood heaven and has a range of upscale restaurants and luxury hotels. It also boasts world-class museums and galleries. And of course the city is home to Harvard University, making Boston both intellectually and aesthetically inviting.
1 Walk the Freedom Trail
Discover Boston’s historical legacy with this unique walk along the city’s 17 most popular American Revolution sight-seeing areas. The self-guided 2.5-mile walk begins in America’s oldest park, 50-acre Boston Common, and concludes at Bunker Hill Monument.
More than 1000 redcoats were based on the Common when the Brits occupied Boston in 1775, and it was the site of anti-Vietnam war rallies in the Sixties. Today the park is a popular recreation area. Other historical sights on the Freedom Trail include patriot Paul Revere’s house and the USS Constitution (the 55-gun frigate that fought the English). Visit the Old Granary Burial Ground (Boston’s oldest cemetery) and Faneuil Hall Marketplace, where revolutionary speeches were given. From ships to meeting houses to burial grounds, the spirit of the American Revolution comes alive on the Freedom Trail.
2 Best Boston Shopping
From street markets to luxury labels, Boston shopping has an eclectic range of retail experiences for visitors. Faneuil Hall Marketplace (aka Quincy Market) has been a place to shop – and protest – since 1742 and is a popular destination for tourists and locals. You’ll also find restaurants, bars, independent boutiques and street entertainment here.
An open-air market worth visiting is Haymarket on Blackstone and North Streets. With more than 100 shops and artisan stalls, it’s the perfect place for souvenirs. Head to Copley Place and the Prudential Center (connected by an indoor bridge) for upscale mall shopping with designer clothes, and visit Back Bay on Newbury Street for more luxury labels. Antiques and collectables are to be found around Beacon Hill. Visit Upstairs Downstairs Antiques on Charles Street for five rooms stacked with an eclectic collection of vintage art, home décor, furniture and more.
3 Explore Beacon Hill
Walk into history along the charming cobblestone neighbourhood of Beacon Hill. The Federal-style row houses and narrow gas-lit streets are among the most expensive real estate in Boston. Head for the South Slope district between Pickney and Beacon Streets for a time travel back to the Colonial era. This is the city’s most historic neighbourhood where civil rights, the abolition of slavery and freedom from British rule were given voice. Join the Freedom Trail and the Black Heritage trail here. The area is a lively cornucopia of boutique shops, restaurants, old pubs, art galleries and antique shops, especially along Charles Street on the Hill’s western slopes. Say ‘cheers’ at the Bull and Finch pub here – supposedly the inspiration for the TV series of the same name. Beacon Hill’s only remaining private park is the beautiful Louisburg Square, just beyond Charles Street. It has a statue of Christopher Columbus at one end and famous former residents including writers Louisa May Alcott and William Dean Howells.
4 Boston Cruises and HarborWalk
The Boston waterfront is the perfect place to escape the city – morning and evening. This former rundown port area of Boston sprang into life again in the Seventies thanks to an adventurous city council who could see the advantages of creating a mix of residential and commercial space. Fast forward to today and the area is connected by the HarborWalk waterfront area offering a selection of cafes, shops, parks, arts spaces, and the chance to sail around Boston Harbour by ferry, water taxi or a cruise boat. The HarborWalk runs from Charlestown to South Boston – take a stroll from the North End to the Seaport area and visit impressive Institute of Contemporary Art suspended above the water. A replica of the Boston Tea Party Ship is here and offers guided tours.
5 Two Great Boston Museums to Visit
John F Kennedy Presidential Museum and Library: Arguably the most influential US President of modern times, the life and service of JFK is celebrated here in this museum dedicated to his family and political life. Exhibits also include artefacts that belonged to his wife, Jackie Kennedy, a widely-loved First Lady who was instrumental in giving the White House a much-needed overhaul back in the 60s.
Isabella Gardener Museum: An unmissable exhibition of art, tapestries, furniture, manuscripts, rare books and more, all beautifully featured in the socialite and philanthropist’s former home – an outstanding three-storey, 15th-century Venetian style palace, only a short walk from the Museum of Fine Art.
Getting Around Boston
Boston’s Logan International Airport is just 3 miles from the centre of Boston and is served by regular taxis, Uber and Lyft. A more romantic way to get into the city is via water taxi. Three taxi services dock at Logan International Airport: the MBTA Harbor Express, Boston Harbor Cruises and Rowe’s Wharf. Boston has a superb public transport system known at the ‘T’. This encompasses subway, bus, trams and boats across the Greater Boston area. Subways are colour coded with six lines: Red, Green, Blue, Orange and Silver. Purchase a CharlieCard or CharlieTicket at subway vending machines. If you’re feeling more active, hop on a Bluebike at many locations across the city and see the best of Boston on two wheels. We recommend buying a Boston CityPASS which gives you discounted admission into many of Boston’s top attractions, including the Skywalk Observatory and Boston Harbor Cruises.
The Best Time To Visit:
Boston has four distinct seasons – but like most of the world now the weather can be unpredictable. Bring layers, an umbrella and good walking shoes.
Spring: Blossom on the trees, and some rainy days. Outdoors markets make a welcome reappearance as do the local baseball team, the Boston Red Sox. The Boston Marathon is in April as is the famous Patriot’s Day.
Summer: Boston can be humid in summer, but often the ocean breezes keep the temperatures down. The perfect season to get on a cruise on the harbour. Summer events include Boston Pride Festival in June and there are many festivals and open-air concerts.
Autumn: Fall colours in Boston are stunning. Temperatures are cooler so wear layers. From Oktoberfest, to food festivals and even pumpkin pageants, autumn is a fun time to visit.
Winter: Boston generally gets snow fall in winter. So be prepared if you visit between December and March. First Night Boston is a fabulous New Year’s Eve celebration.
Image via BostonUSA.com
by ginabaksa | Nov 19, 2019 | Travel Writing
Enjoy Tuscan sun and superb hospitality at the luxurious Borgo Santo Pietro estate near Siena
Tuscany is God’s gift to the planet. The perfect movie backdrop; a haven for foodies and oenophiles and an artist’s dream, her rolling hills and sentinel cypress interspersed by honey-coloured stone villas are dreamily compelling: a beguiling romance in the making.
And it’s here, among the winding roads of the Val de Merse that I’m being chauffeured in a Mercedes S Class to the 5-star Borgo Santo Pietro spa estate – just 45 minutes from hilltop Siena. You can arrive at Pisa, Siena or Rome airports – or even charter your own helicopter – all are within easy reach of this extraordinary Tuscan retreat.
We’ve taken the coast road from Pisa, stopping for lunch at Relais Poggia Ai Santi, high above the village of San Vincenzo. Hilltop views across the Tyrrhenian Sea alongside home-made pasta and fine organic wine induce profound relaxation. So by the time we arrive at Borgo’s impressive wrought iron gates just outside Chiusdino, I’m ready to immerse myself in this luxury hotel’s seductive landscapes and accommodation.
A long avenue of majestic sun-lit cypress trees leads up to the main house: A magnificent 12th-century restored villa nestled in a 270-acre estate with breath-taking views across the forests and fields of the Valle Serena.
Borgo’s owners, Danish couple Jeanette and Claus Thottrup (fashion design and construction background) were looking for a holiday home in Tuscany back in 2001. About to leave the region empty handed, they were en route to the airport when a friend suggested they look at Borgo – then a ruined villa – located on an ancient pilgrimage route near the abbey of San Galgano. It was love at first sight.
Fast forward 18 years and this extraordinary couple have created an exclusive 5-star luxury retreat with 20 rooms and suites, deep in the undulating Tuscan Maremma hills – and now a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux Group.
In addition to the eight grand rooms in the villa (the best suite is the Santo Pietro) and 12 garden suites, there’s an infinity pool with bar, a Michelin-starred restaurant, a spa, 11 hectares of vineyards, and a working organic sheep farm with cheese-making facility. Add to the mix bountiful orchards and vegetable fields, alpacas, beehives, chickens… and you’ll see why Condé Nast readers have voted Borgo Santo Pietro their No. 1 resort in Europe. The exquisite courtyards, terraces and gardens all flow into each other, scented with jasmine, rose, honeysuckle and cypress.
The communal spaces in the grand main house – enveloped in golden-hued Tuscan stone – have been beautifully and imaginatively restored: An impressive entrance hall with baronial fireplace leads into the dining and lounge areas. The attention to detail here is astonishing: a Medieval-Baroque smorgasbord of antiques, tapestries, frescoes, glass chandeliers, capacious comfy sofas, exquisite plant arrays and lit fireplaces. I feel completely at home.
Luxury Rooms and Suites
Near the main house, among the 13-acre grounds are two Pool House suites of 85sqm with their own private gardens and pool. Most rooms and suites have fireplaces. I’m staying in the stunning and very spacious La Casa dell’Unicorno Garden Suite. The size of a house, this is luxury estate living at its best. Imagine exposed wooden beams, stone flooring with vintage sofa and chairs; a giant glass chandelier adding to grandeur of the space.
The capacious hand-carved four-poster bed is endowed with a special mattress (from Denmark) and the softest linens from Italy, alongside beautiful antique furniture. The ensuite bathroom has his-and-hers basins, an enormous freestanding bath and superb power shower. Amenities are from Borgo’s own organic skincare range. The Retreat marine algae mineral bath salt with essential oils of Sandalwood, Neroli and Rose; The Revival low foam recovery shampoo with damask rose, orange peel, lemon and rose geranium, and The Purity hand and body cleanser are all gorgeous and leave my skin silky smooth.
The Unicorn Garden Suite boasts not one but three French doors: follow the first to an outside dining terrace with fireplace and a large canopied day bed on a raised grass area. The other leads to a sunken patio with loungers, bordered with blossoming white camellias and lavender. The garden faces southwest with sunny and shady areas in which to rest, read and eat – I love the large dining table next to the fireplace. The third door opens onto a delightful Mediterranean courtyard with Moroccan day beds to lounge in and a selection of tables and chairs set among lemon trees and a central fountain. Water is a recurring theme at Borgo with the soft trickling providing a relaxing backdrop.
A bottle of Spumante and a selection of canapés along with a welcome card await me, next to an exquisite flower arrangement. Modern accoutrements are discreetly hidden: The plasma TV and DVD player concealed behind a unicorn-motif panel, and the aircon is low level. Add touchscreen lighting, fully loaded iPad with music, and Borgo’s concierge app. Plus an iPod and dock. There’s even an old-school DVD library.
I decide to catch up on Game of Thrones (confession: I haven’t seen a single episode) but such is the magic of Borgo I’m not in the mood for anything other than relaxation. Blissfully, the shutters on every window ensure deep sleep during my stay. Pillow lavender-infused chocolates appear at turndown, together with bottled water. I feel cocooned from the rest of the world yet am only a minute’s walk to the main house.
Borgo Santo Pietro Gardens
I meander around Borgo’s grounds before supper; the pink-hued sky a dramatic canvas in this Tuscan paradise. The main house and garden suites at Borgo Santo Pietro are nestled in 13 acres of formal, yet relaxed gardens, each divided into Italianate-style sections. Designer Valstad Helle has collaborated with Jeanette to create a series of masterpieces. Each garden flows seamlessly into the other: the flower garden (used in Borgo’s own organic Seed to Skin skincare range) and herb gardens; a lake with Giverny-style bridge and plantings; a vegetable garden; pool area, shady terraces and hidden rose-canopied arbors for Italian-themed movie nights and boules.
This enchanted haven instantly connects me with nature and I feel grounded and peaceful. There’s a freshwater infinity pool with its own bar and jacuzzi next to the Trattoria Sull’Albero restaurant. Surrounded by canvas parasols and wooden loungers, this idyllic location boasts hidden alcoves in which to escape the midday sun. Shady spots for reading, sipping tea and stronger stuff abound. Even though the rooms and suites are at full capacity, such is the grand scale of Borgo Santo Pietro I only see other couples at dinner as I wander among the tranquil gardens and terraces. The estate is beautifully designed and like a symphony, each area plays its part to create a work of art.
As well as the formal gardens, Borgo Santo Pietro’s farm-to-plate philosophy is evident in the massive orto (culinary gardens). Walk or cycle among edible flowers, herbs, vegetables (more than 200 types) and fruit trees. All the organic produce is grown according to lunar cycles and biodynamic principles, with the produce used at Borgo’s Michelin-starred restaurant Meo Modo, and at its sister Michelin-starred restaurant in Florence – La Bottega del Buon Caffè.
Trattoria Sull’Albero Restaurant
In addition to the exquisite accommodation and gardens, the main attraction at Borgo Santo Pietro is the award-winning farm-to-table culinary experience. Choose from two restaurants: the relaxed Trattoria Sull’Albero is adjacent the pool area and constructed around a colossal ancient oak (Sull’Albero means ‘in the tree’). This extraordinary being is without doubt the guardian of the entire estate and takes centre stage in the restaurant. There’s an outside terrace here with magnificent views across the rolling landscapes of the Valle Serena, including the estate’s own vineyards.
I dine beside a welcoming open fire at the Farmers Market – held every Monday evening. A mouth-watering buffet of fresh local fare, mostly from Borgo’s own organic orchards and vegetable gardens. Live piano classics segue into bass and guitar jazz riffs adding a heady cocktail to the succulent flavours and eclectic wine list. Chianti and Brunello especially recommended. I linger long this evening… and devour the superb Tuscan fish stew here the following day. Pizza, game, fresh fish and even wild boar are also on the menu. Bravo Head Chef Stefano Pezzini and team!
Meo Modo 1 Michelin-starred restaurant
Meo Modo – Borgo Santo Pietro’s Michelin-starred restaurant – is located on the ground floor of the main house in a beautiful dining room. Here, Head Chef Giovanni Di Giorgio and his brigade weave their magic over six-, eight- or twelve-course tasting menus with accompanying wine flight. The atmosphere is refined, seductive and romantic. My dinner begins with intriguing amuse-bouches accompanied by a superb Spumante Dosaggio Zero Cantina della Volta.
Starters include a succulent prawn with veal and marsala, and Jerusalem artichokes with cauliflower and walnuts, while first courses are a refined medley of home-made pasta filled with rabbit, or risotto with roasted onion and lamb. I enjoy a beautifully presented and prepared sea bass with asparagus and bottarga. Dessert is a fabulous sottobosco and there’s also a fine cheeseboard on offer, accompanied by Borgo’s organic honey and fruit chutneys, or a choice of mascarpone cheese with wild berries.
Breakfast – my favourite meal of the day – is also served in the main house – buffet style in the former kitchen. I sip my coffee at a table on the heated terrace outside and enjoy early morning vistas of the Valle Serena. Tuscan-soft landscapes of forest, meadow and farmland punctuated by cypress and oak. Wild boar frequent these forests, which is why Borgo’s sheep herd is carefully guarded by a live-in shepherd dog.
It’s the most beautiful location in which to indulge in a medley of divine Italian cheeses, meats, honey from the estate, jams, home-made bread, yoghurts, and Italian cakes (with gluten-free options too). My scrambled eggs – from the estate’s own hens – are superb. Ditto the cheese omelette. Flavour-bursting cherry tomatoes are as sweet as the silky smooth honey from the Borgo bees. Borgo Santo Pietro is now 50% self-sufficient, while both restaurants are 90% organic.
Borgo Santo Pietro Organic Farm Estate
Before taking the Vespa out for a spin, I walk around the grounds: a total of 250,000 trees and bushes have been transplanted here in the formal gardens and orchards. The Borgo Santo Pietro estate is certified organic and now covers some 270 acres, thanks to the recent acquisition of the adjacent farm. I wander down to the free-range chicken coops (think colourful Brighton beach huts and almost as large), opening one of the hatches to discover warm freshly laid eggs.
Nearby are a series of beehives, while milk is collected daily from Borgo’s sheep which is made into artisan yoghurt and cheese at the estate’s dairy. There’s a focus on maintaining the delicate balance of the land and the integrity of the soil here. The result is an organic landscape that respects livestock and the earth, with farmers, gardeners and chefs working together at Borgo Santo Pietro to create a true farm-to-table experience, with flavours and textures to match. The experience heals mind, body and spirit – you’ll receive generous inner and outer nourishment here.
Borgo Santo Pietro Seed to Skin Skincare Range
The healing theme continues at Borgo with the estate’s own regenerative organic skincare range – Seed to Skin – available to buy online at seedtoskin.com and at net-a-porter.com. I visit the laboratory in the adjacent hamlet of Palazzetto. Here the team hand-make the organic products, which are also available in Borgo’s rooms and suites. None of the process is outsourced. The products are also used in the heavenly massage and facial I experience later that day.
Jeanette trained in natural remedies at Neal’s Yard in London and is a passionate advocate of the healing power of plants and minerals: “We’ve created a natural molecular system with Seed to Skin,” she tells me. “A powerful combination of science and nature.”
Borgo’s Seed to Skin three-legged logo represents the past, present and future, with a nod to the herbs in the Borgo gardens: Rosemary for remembrance, Basil for joy and the present and Marjoram for the future. The date 1129 is significant as the local village has hosted pilgrims since the 12th century.
Dr Anna Buonocore, who has a PhD in Pharmacy and Cosmetic Scient and Technology, works alongside Jeanette and laboratory manager, Cristina Guidarelli, in developing the Seed to Skin skincare range. “Seldom in my career as a scientist have I had the benefit of creating products made with such quality active ingredients,” she tells me.
“We mix the plants we grow at Borgo with other active and wild ingredients from the sea and small growers, which are wild forested from across the world,” adds Jeanette.
“Each Seed to Skin product is the result of passionate scientific pursuit alongside proven clinical studies.”
Borgo Santo Pietro Spa
The unique Borgo spa is located among the gardens, a short walk from my Unicorn Garden Suite, and has two al fresco treatment areas among the jasmine, honeysuckle and roses; and two indoor therapy rooms. The ever-present birdsong and fountains are calming, while the interiors here echo the grandeur and refinement of the main house: Stone walls, open fireplace, natural oak tables, antique stone floors, exposed beams, grand chandeliers and giant candelabra.
An exquisite flower display adorns the centre table and I’m offered a refreshing tea on arrival before being led to my treatment room. The energy feels tranquil, refined and grounding. A range of therapies are available, from the Ayurvedic Shirodhara to mani-pedis. All the products used are from Borgo’s Seed to Skin skincare range.
My therapist Laura is outstanding. We begin with a salt foot bath with roses for a mild detox, followed by the Seed to Skin Candle massage. This exquisite experience involves a candle infused with avocado oils, shea butter and coconut extract being melted and poured over my skin then massaged with very flowing connected movements. Spa brochures are apt to suggest you’ll feel a ‘profound sense of wellbeing’ but in Borgo Spa’s case this is true. The room temperature is perfect and I feel warm and comfortable throughout – even falling asleep.
This divine experience is followed by an extraordinary Ritual by Seed to Skin Facial. Using firm massage techniques my skin is soothed, rehydrated and calmed, thanks to Lauren’s skill and natural plant-based formulas sourced from flowers and herbs in Borgo’s gardens. The very best massage and facial I have ever experienced. Book her
Activities at Borgo Santo Pietro
If your preference is for more physical activity, you can practice your serve on the estate’s tennis courts, play badminton or basketball, or take the Borgo bikes out for a spin around the grounds. Try wild swimming in the River Merse at the bottom of the estate or hike out into the Valle Serena and melt into the lush landscapes. You can also visit the on-site dairy farm where goat’s milk is made into delicious cheese.
Other activities include ballooning, flower arranging, painting lessons, and fabulous cooking classes with dear Mamma Olga who lives with her family in Palazzetto. She doesn’t speak a word of English, but with the help of our interpreter and lots of smiling and gesticulation I turn out a pretty cool tagliatelle pasta.
I love the feeling of family at Borgo. The Italians here have such warmth and open-heartedness. During my visit the Serbian American artist Vlatko Vojnvic is in residence at the artist’s house by the lake and gives regular classes. I meet up with him at the studio. “Everybody can be an artist, whatever they are painting,” Vlatko tells me. “It’s just a question of letting go and being in innocence.”
Attractions near Borgo Santo Pietro
Siena is only 45 minutes’ drive from Borgo Santo Pietro, while Florence can be reached in under an hour. Visit the group’s other Michelin-starred restaurant here – the fabulous La Bottega del Buon Caffè helmed by Head Chef Erez Ohayon. Take Borgo’s sexy red Ferrari for a spin, or hop on the Vespas and visit nearby Chiusdino. This hilltop village is the birthplace of Saint San Galgano, a Templar knight who renounced all worldly goods and plunged his sword into a stone, thus heralding the myth of Britain’s King Arthur. The stone – buried to its medieval hilt – can be seen inside the nearby Hermitage of Montesiepi.
This fully restored Templar church rises majestically above the enigmatic ruins of the Abbey of San Galgano which is also open to the public. There’s a café adjacent to the Hermitage with panoramic views over the valley, and a small shop with souvenirs and foods from the region. Pilgrims and knights rested here en route to Jerusalem and both sites have extraordinary and very tangible energy.
Satori Yacht
Jeanette and Claus haven’t restricted their creative talents to bricks and mortar, they’ve also created Borgo Santo Pietro’s very own yacht, the Satori. The couple’s passion for sailing – and their own design talents – inspired them to design and construct a stunning 41.5m schooner with the kind of luxurious interiors and state-of-the-art technology you’ll find at Borgo Santo Pietro. Satori’s experienced Turkish captain will take you to the best Mediterranean locations, including the South of France, Italy, Greece and Croatia.
Lavishly designed with 5 double cabins (one is a master suite and the other converts to a spa), a galley and all the toys you could want, Satori is in high demand. Enjoy cuisine prepared by chefs trained at Borgo’s Michelin-starred Meo Modo, and at the Group’s Michelin-starred La Bottega del Buon Caffè in Florence. There’s also an air-conditioned wine cellar with 250-bottle storage – more than enough to keep the most avid oenophile happy.
Relax and recharge at Borgo Santo Pietro
“How often do we give ourselves the time to stop and rest? To become still and connect with our higher selves?” Jeanette asks me over lunch at Trattoria Sull’Albero. Good question. And in my case, not often enough.
“At Borgo we aim to give guests an experience of themselves,” she explains. “To recharge, refresh and hopefully return home with new perspectives.”
Borgo has around 30% repeat guests, so clearly Jeanette’s vision is working. “I’m not really a hotelier,” she confides. “More than anything I want to touch peoples’ lives and make a difference. Which is why I’m so passionate about our skincare range Seed to Skin. We use completely organic products that work from the inside out.”
Have guests had life-changing epiphanies at Borgo?
“Yes!” Jeanette reveals. “I’ve had many guests tell me they’ve sought out new directions in life after staying with us. That’s so inspiring!”
Borgo’s inherent healing energy is so subtle you may not immediately notice it, but it will be working its magic on you, whether or not you believe in things unseen. It certainly has a profound effect on my own body, mind and soul during my stay.
Indeed, Borgo’s Seed to Skin skincare motto is a reminder of the restorative qualities at this exquisite retreat: “You are as young as your passion. As old as your fears. As vital as your courage. As limited as your judgements.”
Ideally you need to stay at Borgo Santo Pietro for at least a week. That will give you time to relax and enjoy the spa, the grounds, the suites, the restaurants, and the farm. And to venture farther afield to Siena, as well as local hilltop villages and wineries. Engage with all your senses during your visit: Listen to the birdsong and the wind in the trees. Feel the sun on your body; savour the extraordinary cuisine and allow yourself to melt into the stillness.
Borgo Santo Pietro estate has a truly magical quality, thanks to its ancient healing legacy and exquisite grounds and accommodation. A luxurious sanctuary in which to completely relax and recharge: After only a few days you’ll be feeling, as I did, part of the lovely Borgo family.
Grazie mille Borgo Santo Pietro – tornerò presto!
Where & How
Cost: Room rates from £495.
Where: 110 Loc. Palazzetto. 53012 Chiusdino (SI) Tuscany Italy.
How: Phone +39 0577751222 or visit borgosantopietro.com to find out more and make a booking.
by ginabaksa | Nov 19, 2019 | Travel Writing
Discover the top five attractions awaiting you in Amsterdam
Amsterdam is an attractive city break destination at any time of the year, but even more so when winter makes way to spring. Take a guided cycle ride along one of Amsterdam’s 165 canals, visit world-famous museums and breweries, enjoy a canal cruise among the waterways, sit and linger in the ubiquitous coffee shops, and haggle over bargains in one of Amsterdam’s street markets. Here are 5 top Amsterdam attractions to visit today:
1 Visit Amsterdam’s Best Street Markets
Amsterdam street markets are popular meeting places, as well as sources of quality organic food, antiques and collectables, fashion and household goods. Waterlooplein Markt is Amsterdam’s oldest market and open daily except Sundays. Head for this square near the national opera building and rummage for vintage clothing, jewellery, souvenirs, and even secondhand bikes. Flower lovers won’t miss the floating flower market on Singel canal.
Stalls housed in floating ‘barges’ sell fresh-cut flowers and bulbs. The largest outdoor market in Europe is Amsterdam’s Albert Cuyp market located in De Pijp. Over 300 stalls sell anything from organic food to clothing and electronics. Visit the 17th-century Jordaan district for the famous Noordermarkt and savour delicious street food, artisanal bread and souvenirs. There’s an abundance of eco-friendly organic produce at ZuiderMRKT. Choose from 20 specialist stalls at this Amsterdam-Zuid location near the Museumplein.
2 Visit Amsterdam’s Breweries
The tradition of brewing in Holland began during the Middle Ages when every monastery created its own beer. Amsterdam is no exception being home to Amstel and Heineken. Craft beers and beer cafés are popular here, as are visits to Amsterdam’s breweries. The Heineken brewery transformed its premises into an interactive museum (the Heineken Experience) in 1991.
Learn about beer-making and sample a glass or two of ‘probably the best lager in the world.’ on the self-guided tour. A young pretender to Amsterdam’s brewing crown is the Oedipus Brewing company. From its snug taproom in the north of Amsterdam it serves 12 varieties of beer. You can’t miss the Brouwerij het IJ brewery windmill standing sentinel over its beer garden. Savour the Natte Dubble and Zatte Trippel, before making your way to the unique Brouwerij de Prael in the Red Light District.
3 Explore Amsterdam’s Canal District
Amsterdam’s 17th-century canal district around the city’s Binnenstad remains the city’s life blood and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The waterways between the Singel and Prinsengracht canals contain beautiful mansions built by wealthy merchants during the Dutch Golden Age. The best way to appreciate the canals is on an Amsterdam canal cruise. Take in the stunning architecture, iconic bridges like the Magere Brug, beautiful churches, and world-renowned sites.
Amsterdam has three main canals: The Herengracht (Gentlemen’s Canal) is regarded as the most prestigious and the Mayor of Amsterdam lives here at number 502. The Keizersgracht (Emperor’s Canal) – named after Maximillian of Austria – lies in the middle of the main canals and is the widest in Amsterdam. Prinsengracht (Prince’s Canal) is the longest canal, named after the Prince of Orange. Anne Frank House is here, as is the famous Noordermarkt.
4 Tour Amsterdam by bike
Amsterdam is just as famous for its love of two-wheeled transportation as its canals. Offering bikers of all abilities 250 miles of dedicated cycle lanes, Amsterdam is bicycle heaven. The special bike lanes, known as fietspaden, are marked in red and you’ll find them on the right-hand side of the streets. There’s usually a pictograph of a bike indicating it’s safe to cycle. Amsterdamers do not ride on the pavement, so stick to the roads.
The city’s biggest bike park is by the Ibis Hotel at Central Station. Around 2,500 bikes are parked here daily so make sure yours is easy to identify. The best way to see Amsterdam is with a guided bike tour along a 12km route, taking in many of the city’s sites such as the Museumsplein, Vondelpark, the Red Light district and Anne Frank House.
5 Visit Amsterdam’s Van Gogh Museum
Artistic genius Van Gogh sadly never received the credit due to him during his lifetime, but the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam surely makes up for it. It has the largest collection of Van Gogh artwork in the world including his famous Sunflowers, as well as over 500 drawings, more than 200 paintings and 700 letters. From 1 March until 26 May this year the museum is hosting a special Hockney-Van Gogh: The Joy of Nature exhibition that explores the parallels between these two outstanding artists – indeed Hockney has often acknowledged the influence of Van Gogh on his own work. Many of Hockney’s much-loved Yorkshire landscapes will be on show. The Van Gogh Museum holds regular art workshops for children and every Friday remains open until 9pm with an invited selection of DJs and musicians to celebrate the space with visitors.
Getting Around
Whether you arrive in Amsterdam via international Schipol airport or by road or train, the city is a superb transport hub and getting around is easy. There is a good network of taxis, buses, trams, metro, ferries and bike routes. Buy an I Amsterdam City Card for unlimited free use of local public transport for periods of 24, 48 , 72, 96 or 120 hours. In addition, the I Amsterdam City Card provides free entry into more than 60 of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions – plus a free 1-hour canal cruise. Visit www.iamsterdam.com for details. And download the GVB Amsterdam travel app (available on Google Play or iTunes).
Written by Gina Baksa
