by ginabaksa | Nov 22, 2019 | Travel Writing
I meet Kahani Chef Patron Peter Joseph at his new contemporary Indian restaurant near Sloane Square
Since Britain’s first curry house appeared in 1809, the UK’s love affair with Indian food has continued with relish. Fast forward 200 years and the cuisine is our national dish. Increasingly chefs at Indian restaurants are creating more refined Indian dishes with less heavy sauces, less ghee and as a result are attracting a loyal crowd.
A case in point is Kahani, the new kid on the Chelsea restaurant scene. Open just six months and already garnering positive press, this intimate Wilbraham Place Indian restaurant is well patronised by locals (a stone’s throw from Sloane Square) and has swiftly become a destination restaurant for lovers of sophisticated Indian cuisine.
Kahani enjoys an intimate subterranean setting with 80 covers (formerly home to Canvas and Le Cercle) including a private 10-cover dining room on a mezzanine level above the main dining tables. The space is sophisticated yet welcoming with a semi-open kitchen and a vast wine cellar visible behind glass panels. I receive a warm welcome from the concierge who takes my coat and guides me downstairs to the restaurant.
Kahani means ‘story’ in Hindi, its Michelin-starred co-owner and Chef Patron Peter Joseph tells me at the bar. “It’s my first restaurant – we’ve been open six months now to a great reception. My idea was to show diners that Indian food doesn’t have to be full of heavy sauces. So we focus on light dishes, grilled meats; fish and vegetables from the robata grill as well as tandoor.”
Peter began his UK career at Tamarind in 2005 and left last year. “A great time, a great place to learn, and a fabulous place to work. From 2011 onwards I was head chef.”
In Peter’s case that makes nine years as a Michelin-starred chef; considerable experience in management and cuisine that he brings to Kahani.
Peter looks more like a yoga teacher than a chef. He’s only 20 minutes from service yet incredibly relaxed. Does ever lose his cool in the kitchen? “No,” he smiles. “There’s no point and that’s not my style. We have a calm kitchen. It’s due to good training.
“For sure, there’s lots of pressure in the kitchen, but I’m a very calm chef. Everyone knows what they are supposed to be doing. And they get on with it.
“I find yoga helps me focus and relax, so I apply the same discipline in the restaurant. My Dad used to teach me in childhood. He’s nearly 80 now. Still does yoga back in India.”
I’ve heard his mother influenced his choice of career? “Actually she did,” Peter recalls. “My cooking basics come from my mum. Both my parents are teachers, though. They were worried when I joined hotel management. But they are very proud of me now.
“My mum would pack my lunch for school. A tiffin box with rice, lemon tamarind, breads with meats, rice pancakes and dosha spiced potato. She’s a great cook. I love her lamb curries.”
Did she teach you? “No. I just watched her,” Peter reveals. “Then I watched TV chefs. I loved the white uniform. In my pre-teens my friends and I stole ingredients from mum’s kitchen. Tamarind cumin, etc and we’d make a dish. Four or five guys at the age of 12. It was our way of having fun and socialising – and eating well. That’s when I really fell in love with food. Then I learned my mum’s recipes. After that I studied hotel management for three years in India with a focus on food production.
“I worked with the Residency Group of Hotels in India then moved to London in 2004. Tamarind started in 2005 and I was invited to join them. I left last year and quite miss my brigade there. We were so proud to win the Michelin star – it took a long time. So I’m hoping that Kahani will perform just as well.”
Is there extra pressure to perform when you have a coveted Michelin star?
“Maintaining the star brings extra pressure, but I’m used to it,” says Peter. “We are aiming for another star here.”
I notice the fabulous wine wall at the back of the restaurant. “That was already here,” Peter explains. “But we’ve redesigned everything else, including the private dining room on the mezzanine, which we call our peacock room due to its green and blue hues.”
What makes Kahani stand out? “Our main aim is that each customer feels well looked after from the time they arrive to the time they leave,” Peter tells me. “This is fine dining with a casual flavour; ideal for sharing whether it’s business meetings or a meal with family and friends. We encourage people to enjoy a selection of small sharing plates and connect. We want people to chat with each other. Not spend time on their mobiles.”
Ingredients are seasonal and British where possible, and portioned for sharing. Traditional flavours demand that all the senses are involved. What is Kahani offering that’s different to Tamarind?
“At Tamarind the menu was more traditional – curries and so forth. The spirit of Kahani is light, contemporary Indian food, made with seasonally sourced fresh ingredients. We use very little ghee and always traditional spices – not fusions! I feel fusion is always confusion!
“Grills are the main focus at Kahani. We marinade the meats. And we make up our sauces fresh, not bought in bulk like some restaurants. Our meat is always fresh. Not frozen and reheated.
Where is the meat from?
“Our meats are from different suppliers: mainly UK lamb from Somerset and venison from Kent. Our chickens are organic and grass fed. We have Scottish salmon, and the jumbo prawns are from Indonesia. I visit Billingsgate market twice a week to select the best fish. Having lived in London for 15 years now, I know the suppliers very well. We never use imported meat; it’s all organic and sourced locally.”
What food did he grow up with? “I’m originally from Chennai on the Bay of Bengal in eastern India. So we had lots of seafood and steamed dishes which I still enjoy.”
His favourite meal on the menu? “I love our signature dishes like the prawn tandoor: Malabar prawn, coconut green chilli curry leaves and broccoli. It’s very popular. Lamb chops with Punjabi spices grilled in tandoor is also a favourite. And we have duck and game on the menu mixed with spices such as fennel, cinnamon, ginger and garlic. There are only a few curries on the menu, including Rogan josh. We cook our lamb on the bone so it holds its flavour. Our Biriyanis are also popular.”
We’ve almost finished our cocktails at the bar: the delicious SW1 (saffron and cardamom infused Patron silver tequila, Cointreau and lime juice) while my friend savours her Wilbraham – a heady concoction of rye whisky, Suze, sweet Vermouth, cherry liquor and orange bitter. Both delicious and the perfect aperitif to our supper.
We then make our way to a generous booth and dive into a selection of small plates for starters: spiced chickpeas with sweetened yoghurt, mint tamarind and chutney; chargrilled Scottish scallop – star anise coated – with spiced raw mango thuvayal and soft shell crunchy crab with Mangalorean spices and tomato chutney. And a delicious Masala grilled avocado with olives, caramelised onions and iceberg lettuce. Portion sizes are generous and perfect for sharing. And the poppadum and trio of chutneys delicious.
Our friendly and knowledgeable sommelier Dimitri recommends a superb Fleur de Pedésclaux (Pauillac 2012) and explains wine pairing with Indian cuisine. “An alcohol level of around 5% goes well with spicy food,” he tells us. “The higher the alcohol level, the more spicy the food will taste. And vice versa.”
He pours the wine into a beautiful decanter, allowing it to open up and leaving any sediment at the bottom. “Wines matured for more than 5 years most likely have sediment at the bottom,” Peter explains. “Some people love it, but we usually use a carafe.
“Some wines such as Pinot Noir we have to watch, since the DNA of the grape variety is very sensitive to oxidisation. If the wine has matured for 3 or 4 years, then you have to be gentle when decanting so it’s exposed to as little oxidisation as possible.”
The Kahani menu is extensive with a great selection of seafood, meat, game and vegetables. We chose from the à la carte but there’s also a tasting menu, and a lunch and pre-theatre menu. Eventually I plump for a chargrilled sea bream with browned garlic, sundried tomato and smoked aubergine. My friend opts for the Gressingham duck breast with coriander, pokharaya chutney and a special Jaitooni naan. Our rice is light and fluffy. The textures of both the seafood and game succulent with a delicate blend of spices. There’s little oil here making the food more palatable and infinitely healthier. Presentation and service are excellent.
I’d been told to leave space for dessert. Thank God! My friend and I devour the Chocolate Chilli chocolate mousse bomb with gulab jamun bits. It melts like a volcano when hot chocolate sauce is poured over. And our medley of kulfis: Salted caramel, Rose malai, Pistachio cardamom are extraordinary and a great palate cleanser.
Bravo Kahani! A sensual and exquisite dining experience. Perfect for date nights, family gatherings, celebrations and business meetings. Kahani is taking contemporary Indian cuisine to new heights in sophisticated and intimate surrounds, highlighted by superb attentive service from the waiters and sommelier who gave us outstanding pairings.
Highly recommended.
How & Where
Where: Kahani London, 1 Wilbraham Place, London SW1X 9AE
How: Please phone +44 (0) 207 730 7634 or email reservations@kahanirestaurants.com to make a booking.
by ginabaksa | Nov 22, 2019 | Travel Writing
I savour the stars and stripes menu at American-inspired POTUS on London’s Albert Embankment
In the 15 years I’ve lived on London’s Southbank, the area has transformed beyond recognition. From One Blackfriars to the new Crowne Plaza at Vauxhall, sophisticated hotel and residential development has breathed life into what once was a distinctly ungentrified part of SE1. Waterloo and Vauxhall have become thriving destinations in their own right.
A recent and welcome addition to the area’s new restaurant openings is the interestingly monikered POTUS – (the most zeitgeisty of anachronims) located on the ground floor of the new Crowne Plaza Hotel at 10 Albert Embankment – a five-minute stroll from Vauxhall tube and mainline station. With a nod to classic Americana, each dish is designed to reflect different elements of the US of A’s cultural identity. While the signature cocktail menu takes its inspiration from past US Presidents whose black and white portraits – JKF, Ronald Reagan among them – adorn the walls.
We enjoyed our Teddy Smash “Hat Club”, a tribute to Roosevelt’s love for Mojitos, and a vibrant JFK & Mary in the smart yet relaxing bar area – demarcated from the dining room by a warming central fire, before we took our places for dinner. Interiors here are warm: wood, steel, subtle lighting, a gorgeous drop chandelier centre stage, make for an impressive bar experience, and includes an unusual waterfall feature on the far wall.
Circular tables in a softly lit dining space – again with more POTUS black and whites around the walls. It’s a club-like atmosphere with an earthy, decadent feel. Very inviting and engaging and the hotel has plans to host intimate jazz and blues evenings to complement this seductive vibe.
Our waiter was very attentive and brought us more Prosecco while we perused the generous wine list. A thoughtfully curated mix of American and New World varieties, diners can choose the richly complex Legacy from Sonoma via the fruity Flor de Campo Chardonnay from Santa Barbara to a fruity Stonestreet Aurora Point Sauvignan Blanc. New World offerings include Italian, South African, Chilean and French wines.
We chose the Californian Showdown Cabernet Sauvignan – and a Pinot Grigio from Trentino – both smooth fruity accompaniments to our starters of West Coast Tuna Caesar salad and Fried Soft Shell Crab – both melt-in-your-mouth delicious. And subtly enhanced by the arrival of delicious fresh bread and chef-prepared butter with smoked sea salt and maple syrup.
The varied menu at POTUS is innovative and exciting. Seasonal ingredients are sustainably sourced. The presentation is mouthwateringly appealing. We segued into main courses of Roasted Free Range Duck Breast with crunchy sweet potatoes, beetroot red fruits purée and pistachios, all perfectly cooked and flavoursome. Alongside tenderstem broccoli. My friend selected the San Francisco Ciopinno: Spiced lobster broth, sea bream, scallop and clams and she was equally delighted. Other main course options included Cajun chicken, a 300oz Cowboy Steak, Truffle Mac&Cheese… POTUS demands (several) return visits to sample all on offer.
The enticing dessert list could not be ignored. After a suitable interval we sampled not one but three desserts: The Bananas Foster (banana sponge caramelised in rum and brown sugar, with crumble and coconut ice cream, the NY baked cheesecake (with fresh raspberries and eggnog ice cream) and Down Mexico Way (warm hazlenut, spiced chocolate tarte with lemon sorbet). All absolutely delicious.
If there is one area in which globalisation has been a resounding success, it’s in the cross-fertilisation of culinary expertise. Executive Chef Pablo Peñalosa Nájera Penalosa has perfected his craft in Mexico, ColumbiaColombia, Spain and now London, demonstrating that food is a great reconciler of perceived differences.
“I am delighted to lead the kitchen at POTUS,” he says. “We truly believe the best connection between people always happens around a table with food and drinks. We will be changing the menu seasonally in order to showcase the depth of the cuisine, but will continue to utilise London’s great access to the best ingredients throughout the year.”
Culinary experiences, like great art, tend to linger long after the experience is over. POTUS has achieved just that; a gastronomic delight using the finest and freshest ingredients that encourages diners to fully indulge their culinary senses. Highly recommended.
How & Where
Where: 10-11 Albert Embankment, London SE1 7SP
When: During the week, POTUS is open for breakfast from 6.30am – 10am, for lunch from 12pm – 3pm and dinner from 6pm – 10:30pm. On weekends, the restaurant opens for breakfast from 7:30am – 11:30am, lunch from 12:30pm – 15:00pm and dinner from 6:00pm – 10:30pm. Last orders are by 10pm for dinner service.
How: For reservations, please book through Opentable or phone reception on 0203 1460 371.
by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
I celebrate cocktail week with a visit to THE BAR and Galvin restaurant at The Athenaeum Hotel & Residences in London’s Mayfair
A playground for the rich and famous for more than 170 years, 116 Piccadilly is home to one of London’s most iconic hotels, The Athenaeum. An extensive refurbishment of ground floor and bar areas by Kingsley Kent Design this summer has opened up the lobby and reception, while the former Garden Room has evolved into THE BAR, a cool destination lounge bar with its own private entrance on Down Street.
I’m sitting at the bespoke black marble counter top, looking out at the Living Wall by Patrick Blanc opposite – this is a beautiful softly lit space. The sofas and chairs lend an air of relaxed sophistication and the service is immediate and friendly.
I’m here to meet the renowned Italian entrepreneur and bar consultant Giancarlo Mancino, creator of a unique range of signature cocktails. He’s bar consultant to Michelin-starred chefs The Galvin Brothers who now run the food and beverage arm of The Athenaeum. With a repertoire of original creations but also some “classics with a twist”, all 15 bespoke botanical cocktails at The BAR are served in Mancino’s own cocktail glassware – each with a wormwood engraved motif – designed specifically to enhance the outstanding flavours.
Originally from the South of Italy, Giancarlo learned the art of mixing in the States, where he studied with Master Bartender Cory Campbell (he trained Tom Cruise for his role in the movie Cocktail). Moving to London, Giancarolo won Best Bartender awards in 2000 and 2001 while working at the Lanesborough’s Library Bar. Periods in Dubai and across India expanded his cultural and mixologist horizons, before returning to London to start his own consultancy Giancarlo BAR, which has now branched out to Hong Kong. As a result he continues to consult for some of biggest names in the hotel industry across the world.
Mancino is also known as the King of Vermouth – having created his own Mancino Vermouth range. His inspiration? “I became disappointed with commercially produced Vermouths – they were all lacking quality,” he tells me. “As a bartender I know the importance of having a quality Vermouth for cocktails. So I decided to experiment and produce my own.”
Having tested the market on his friends and family, Giancarlo was convinced he had a winner and started production in 2011. He chose a family run mill in the Piedmont area of northern Italy where he grinds the botanicals for 30 days.
The botanicals are then steeped with sugar beet spirit and added to a Trebbiano di Romagna wine base, which is stored for six months before bottling and labelling. The product is now shipped worldwide and there are four fabulous varieties: Secco, Bianco Ambrato, Rosso Amaranto and Vecchio.
An original spin on a classic taste, the botanical flavours are distinctive. Perfect as an aperitif on their own as well as a cocktail base. I especially enjoyed it neat on ice.
“I did a lot of my own research, traveling around the world searching for the right ingredients,” says Giancarlo. “Eventually I found 40 botanicals that I use. It’s been an incredible adventure.
“I put my own money on the table at first and it was more of a hobby but then it went boom! Suddenly I had a profitable business!”
I notice the retro-looking label on the Vermouth bottles. “This is my village in southern Italy. You can see the square where I played football as a kid.” Clearly family is important to Giancarlo.
“My grandmother very much inspired me,” he reveals. “She used to serve my father a Bianco vermouth every Sunday – and my wife has been very supportive.
“She initially encouraged me to make my dream a reality, and produce my own artisanal Vermouth range.”
Every table at THE BAR has a collection of photo postcards with each of the 15 Mancino cocktails. As we are chatting, I’m enjoying a delicious Champagne Julep (Lanson Black Label Brut/goji berries liqueur/strawberries/caster sugar/fresh mint leaves) and have segued on to a wonderfully refreshing Basilico Mojito.
Giancarlo’s love of the botanicals: flowers, herbs spices and roots is legendary. Maybe he was a monk in a past life? “I love Japan so much I think I was a Samurai,” he smiles. Mancino is certainly the Samurai of Vermouth.
So what’s the essential ingredient for a good hotel bar? “Good visibility, great glassware and superb service,” he tells me. “And keeping the cocktails bespoke and craft. It’s important to keep a sense of uniqueness.”
Giancarlo Mancino has certainly created his USP with his superb range of botanical cocktails at THE BAR. It’s hard to leave but I have a dinner reservation here at The Athenaeum. So Basilico Mojito in hand, I bid adieu to the master mixer and head for the Galvin restaurant on the ground floor of the hotel.
If you’re a foodie you need no introduction to the Michelin-starred Galvins (Bistrot de Luxe, Galvin La Chapelle and Galvin HOP). Brothers Chris and Jeff have created an all-day dining offering at The Athenaeum that includes breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, room service – and dinner.
I’ve an early sitting and the restaurant is quiet and peaceful – perfect for an early evening catch up with an old friend. The menu features a welcoming British influence, in addition to Galvin favourites such as the Galvin smoked salmon and steak tartare. The wide range of starters is very appealing. I loved the flavours and textures of my black figs, goat’s curd and Woodall’s Cumbrian air-dried ham.
My friend opted for the poached lobster and cauliflower salad. Both light on the palate and a perfect segue into the fish pie – and for me the Denham Estate venison with blackberries and celeriac. Cooked to perfection, the meat melted in my mouth. In the name of research I also tried my friend’s fish pie, which was creamy and full of chunky fish pieces. My wine – a Côtes de Rhône was the ideal accompaniment.
Dessert treats include sticky toffee pudding and Valrhona chocolate mousse. I made for the sorbet while my friend relished her floating island with vanilla and blackberries.
Superb and attentive service, combined with the masterful creations from the Galvin kitchen ensured a memorable and fun evening. Stylish and glamorous, and without pretension, THE BAR and Galvin at The Athenaeum are a welcome and sophisticated addition to the Mayfair restaurant scene.
How and Where
The Athenaeum Hotel & Residences: Located in Mayfair, The Athenaeum Hotel & Residences has 164 bedrooms, including 12 suites, 18 townhouse residences and The Penthouse Suite. The Penthouse Suite is available from £2,280 inc VAT
Where: 116 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London W1J 7BJ Tel: +44 (0)20 7499 3464
How: Email galvin@athenaeumhotel.com, phone +44 (0) 20 7640 3333 or visit athenaeumhotel.com
by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
Gina Baksa meets celebrity chef and global entrepreneur Wolfgang Puck and chats food, celebrities, life and business over afternoon tea at CUT, his London restaurant at the 45 Park Lane hotel, Mayfair
Wolfgang Puck is one of the world’s most successful chef-entrepreneurs. From his early start peeling vegetables at a local restaurant in Austria (his mother was a chef) to creating iconic LA restaurants Spago and Chinois, as well as over 100 restaurants across world, consumer products, a TV series and syndicated column – the main is a phenomenon.
He is also the founder of Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group, Wolfgang Puck Catering and Wolfgang Puck Worldwide. Widely recognised for his nurturing and encouragement of new chef talent (including CUT 45 Park lanes Executive Chef David McIntyre), Wolfgang recently received the exceptional Cateys 2018: International Outstanding Achievement Award.
He opened first flagship restaurant, Spago in LA back in 1982 and has been on the fast track to success ever since, catering for the Oscar’s Governor’s Ball for the last 24 years and only the second chef ever to receive a star on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame.
I met the 69-year-old phenomenon in London recently for his Chinois on Main Pop Up at CUT at 45 Park Lane. Marking the 35th birthday of his successful Santa Monica restaurant, Wolfgang brought his Asian Fusion cuisine to London.
We’re upstairs at Bar 45, a glamorous bar that has the largest selection of American wines in the UK, including Wolfgang’s own Wolfgang Puck-Schrader ‘Beckstoffer Georgess III Vineyard, Napa Valley, of which only 80 cases were made.
He’s in his whites, looking fresh, relaxed and has the energy of a man half his age. I’m a little intimated – the man is a culinary idol.
“My group is arriving at 12,” he tells me over tea. “My fellow classmates from my Harvard business course. About three years ago a journalist asked me if I had fulfilled all my dreams. And I told him I had always wanted to go to Harvard.
“Then a few days later, Harvard Business School calls me up and asks me when I want to start!”
Wolfgang joined the University’s Owner President’s Management Program (OPM) which is one month over three years.
“I panicked at first,” he reveals. “I didn’t know how to use a computer. But it’s been brilliant – you stay and sleep in a dorm – like being at boarding school” he smiles. “As I’ve got my pop-up here at CUT they are all coming for lunch here about 120 here from all over the world. Next March is the last month. Then we have a graduation ceremony.”
So what has he got out of the Harvard experience so far?
I’ve learnt how to look at the business from the outside more and get input from different people on how to manage my company better. Also how to give people a clearer vision of what I want. And how to structure the company more efficiently.
Who’s your main right hand man?
Alex (Resnik) runs the restaurants and he’s responsible for their performance. He’ll give me suggestions if anything needs tweaking. We always want positive sales growth, so we sit down and discuss what’s needed.
Which restaurant is his best performing?
Number one is Spago in Singapore – that’s our best right now. It has a huge bar and lounge with 166 seats and an amazing location on top of the Marina Bay Sands hotel. Our second best is Spago in Beverley Hills. And the third is CUT in Las Vegas.
Why Chinois so popular?
Chinois was the first fusion restaurant in Los Angeles – it gave people a taste of something completely different. In the beginning, I’d never cooked traditional Chinese food and never used a wok. So I built an island kitchen at the restaurant. On one side I had three woks, on the other a wood burning stove and six flames. So that meant if I couldn’t use a wok I still had the flame!
Did the West Coast Asian influences inspired him to develop fusion cuisine?
Totally! The West Coast has so many great Asian influences: we have China Town, Korea Town… I wanted to cook using local ingredients but with flavours from different cultures.
And express my take on Chinese rather than using traditional recipes. For example instead of thickening a sauce with corn starch I use butter. And in certain situations I use cream. I definitely didn’t want stir-fried beef – enough LA restaurants are doing this. So I decided to make a New York steak, which Americans love, and then add an Asian-tasting sauce with it. So I caramelised shallots with some chilli flakes, added some soy sauce, some mirin and stock and reduced it then finished with a little butter.
It was a whole new flavour! What was also good was that we didn’t have the history. It would be hard to do that in Italy for example with such a rich tradition. Much more adventurous cooking originated from the west coast.
Had you got bored with Spago?
I opened Spago in West Hollywood, then another in Japan, and I remember being jetlagged in Japan seeing the same chairs, plates etc. and thinking I can’t continue to do this – bring out one after the other. I was always interested in Chinese food, so I decided to open my own Chinese restaurants. We trained a little bit at Spago – I tried out a few things and did it my way. It worked and became hugely successful.
His restaurant expansion has been incredible…
Yes it has but it’s happened over a long period of time. We didn’t expand and explode in 3 years. We’ve also expanded in different areas: upscale dining, airport restaurants, appliances and stuff, in supermarket foods. All different industry sectors.
Where does he get his energy from? Does he work out?
I have a personal trainer who comes two or three times a week when I’m in LA – and I have a gym in my house. And a tennis court too so I play regularly. I think it’s important when you get to a certain age to keep on moving.
Does he enjoy cooking when he’s at home? Or does he let his wife Gelila take over?
Gelila’s (designer and creative director at Wolfgang Puck) is a very good cook too and if you ask my kids who makes the better pasta they’ll tell you mum makes the best Bolognese sauce and the best lasagne.
Have his sons followed him into the industry?
One of my sons, Byron has followed me into the business. He went to Cornell Management School and I sent him to different restaurants to learn the trade. He trained at Guy Savoy in Paris and also at Nobu here in London when he was at high school. I wanted him to work somewhere we he would be inspired.
Will he take over the reins of the company?
Yes, that’s what I am hoping. If he takes over the company, in say 10 years or so, it’s important that he’s a good cook. So he can tell the chefs his vision, what direction he’s taking.
Do you follow modern trends in cooking?
We create a blend of tradition and innovation. That’s what works. An example is our restaurant The Rogue Experience. It’s a tiny restaurant with a kitchen on one side; the customers sit at the counter. We do about 15 to 18 dishes. I’m very impatient so they have to move fast. Six dishes an hour for this tasting menu. I have two chefs there. Then I bring in chefs from different restaurants. So generally four chefs are cooking for 8 customers.
An amazing dining experience! And the chefs cannot do anything that they do in their own restaurant. They have to be creative. David McIntyre (Executive Chef at CUT 45 Park Lane) is very talented – he’s constantly reinventing. Once many chefs reach the age of 40 they get into a pattern and don’t want to change. I want them to continue to create.
Who has inspired him?
I got inspired at the age of 19 when I worked at Beaumanière (Provence) and I told myself I wanted to be like the owner-chef Raymond Thuilier. He was in his 70s at the time and still so passionate about food, about the ingredients and cooking. And also about hospitality. He owned the hotel and the restaurant. Picasso ate there, so did Queen Elizabeth it was a Micheln 3 star.
Why did he leave Europe for the States?
I was working at Maxim’s in Paris and everyone said to me: ‘You’re young. What are you gonna do?” My friend was the pastry chef there and he told me I’d make much more money and have a better life in the States.
So when the opportunity came, I went. I was living in Monaco and a motor racing fan, so when somebody offered me a job in Indianapolis I took it! At that time it was complete culinary backwater. From there I moved to California after I got my Green Card.
We lost Tony Bourdain and Paul Bocuse this year. Did he know them?
I was more friendly with Paul than with Tony. I did a TV show with Paul at his restaurant and at his country home. And he came to cook with us at Spago in Beverly Hills and Las Vegas; he was very generous and very sweet. And I’m good friends with his son Jérome.
Tony and I had a little disagreement about fois gras once. He was working at Les Halles in New York – way before he became famous. He chided me for caving in to public demand and taking fois gras off the menu. I told him I didn’t want people demonstrating outside my restaurant. And that when he was running a successful restaurant himself he’d be better qualified to give me advice!
Is fois gras still off the menu in California?
Yes, it is, but for the Chinois pop-up here in London it’s on. Fois gras is still in demand so we give the customers what they want. They love it. The pop up is very successful, it’s a good mix of old and modern. The signature dish is Chinois Lobster. People also love the sizzling fish, and the pineapple and fois gras.
What are the qualities of a good leader?
I think you have to really tell people your vision very clearly. Then train them over the years; establish a culture and hold people responsible. For example if David here at CUT 45 Park Lane wants to change the fish, he doesn’t have to call me and ask me if he can change it. He’s been with me 23 years. If he can’t do it alone then he shouldn’t be working with me.
I want each restaurant to be independent. They can play with the menu to a certain point, but they have to have clear guidelines. I want them to own their creation. The individual chef in each restaurant knows much better than head office what their customers want.
Many of your staff have been with you for years?
Yes, we have great continuity with our staff. I have two chefs – one in LA and the other in Vegas who have been with me many years who oversee the openings. They work with the local chefs who are ultimately responsible. They have autonomy.
Do you still source locally?
Yes, I love it. Even at home I go to the local markets. Every Sunday in Beverley Hills there’s a little farmer’s market in Santa Monica. I love the smells; same with the fish market. I tell all the chefs it’s all about the ingredients. You must know the produce inside out.
Did growing up on a farm help him hone his nose for good produce?
Yes, I was always close to the farmers. At Ma Maison in LA where I used to work I’d go to a farm south of LA and I’d get the perfect ripe strawberries; the perfect green beans. It was amazing. I learnt how to smell the produce. Just like where I grew up. When I was a boy my mother just went to the vegetable garden, picked 5 vegetables and made a soup.
Was your mother a chef in your home town? Did she inspire you to cook?
Not my home town but nearby at a resort hotel on a lake. She totally inspired me to cook. When I was 12 or 13 I would work at the hotel and spend time in the kitchen with the pastry chef. I loved sweets so it was perfect.
Did your mother live to see your success?
Yes, totally. And she was very proud of me. She was a quiet woman. My step father was another matter. Probably bi-polar and very boisterous but it wasn’t diagnosed in those days. He was crazy and used to drink a lot. Not good.
There’s the story that you were fired from your job and you went down to your local river to end it all?
Yup that’s true, I tried to jump into the river. But then I had the thought to go back to work. Maybe my boss was having a bad day and he’d let me stay. So I did. The apprentice above me hid me in the cellar and I peeled all the vegetables. A few weeks later the chef came down and ask me why I was there when I had been fired. I told him I wasn’t leaving and stood my ground. So I tell everyone now – never take no for an answer!
So what’s next for you – personally and professionally?
Right now, it’s exciting for me to see how Byron grows into the business. He’s cooking at Rogue now. He’s not yet an experienced chef but he has a great imagination. And he’s not afraid to ask for advice from the other chefs. He’s also great on TV – he’s appeared with me on the Shopping Channel and he’s not fazed by celebrities. When I was his age I was so shy. He’s very confident.
Right now I’m trying to find a balance between my professional and my private life. We only live once and are here for such a short time, So I’ve decided to take July off. Before, I used to take just 10 days’ vacation a year. Crazy. My wife is very happy about my decision.
What do you do when you take a break? Can you ever switch off?
You know I can compartmentalise everything really well. When I’m at work I concentrate on work. When I’m at home with the children I don’t have my phone with me. I don’t want to be interrupted. Even when I’m in a restaurant I don’t answer it.
My wife and I play tennis; we love art and go to the local galleries. You have to have common interests with your partner. My wife loves fashion so I’ll take her to Paris for the shows. She sees it with a friend and I hang out with my friends in a café. Perfect!
Fashion is a bit like our industry – we both have to constantly reinvent ourselves and be creative.
Is that the key to your fulfilment, being so creative?
Yes, and I always think I can do better. A perfectionist? I tell everyone that I’m easy-going as long as you do it the way that I want! Mostly I give positive feedback to my staff. I just tell them how I want them to do it without being mean. It’s so much better. I reward them so they feel good about it. It’s not good to hammer on someone.
Life is energy. If you do something good you get so much good energy back it makes you feel good and not tired. It’s like putting gas in a car.. and not running out, he smiles.
So for me to be in the kitchen, and to be with my customers feeds my energy. I meet so many fascinating people from Presidents to royalty to the Hollywood crowd.
How do you compartmentalise it all? How do you stay calm?
I sit and think. They think I’m daydreaming but I’m often thinking about what to do next. How to improve the business. It’s important not to sit still. This time next year the world will be a very different place. Everything is changing so fast. Who would have thought that everything we need is in our telephone? Each time I see a red phone booth in London I take a photo. Look what’s replaced it!
What does he think about the TV celebrity chef trend?
Much of the shouting and buffoonery is an act. You’d get sued for harassment in the States if you did that. In 1982 at Spago we had an open kitchen. So we had to.be nice as our guests could hear everything. The open kitchen is a good thing. Everyone has to look smart, shave and have good ingredients. And they have to cook it right as the customer can come up to the counter and tell you it’s not good! We are far more visible now.
I remember I cooked squab once for Lauren Bacall. She accosted me saying you don’t know how to cook this bird it’s still pink! And I told her yes, that’s the way you should eat it. She loved us but she was tough. She used to come to Chinois straight from the airport before she went to her hotel.
Will you continue to open more restaurants?
Yes, for sure. Hopefully another one in London, I like it here. My sons may go to school here, so I’ll be coming more often. We are opening another restaurant in Orlando in September this year. Then another one by next March in DC. We have no plans to stop expanding. Some restaurants fall by the wayside; the leases expire. We try to move forward slowly. As long as I have the talent to work with me we will continue to expand.
Is it hard to find good chefs?
We have a lot of cooking schools in the States, but it’s still difficult to find a good chef. The CIA (Culinary Institute of America) is in Napa Valley and we also have Johnson & Wells which is part of the university in Providence RI. To find people who are passionate and people who want to work is not that easy.
Does the younger generation of chefs want a different lifestyle?
Yes for sure. They don’t care so much about the money but they want a lifestyle balance. When we were young we had to work as hard as possible to make money. We didn’t think about having a ‘lifestyle’. When I was 25 I knew I had to work two jobs so that one day I could open a restaurant. So I did. Now people want free time and a better work-life balance.
This change of lifestyle also gives the partners of chefs the chance to do something too. Not just look after the children. It used to be so one-sided for women it was like oppression. They had to stay at home and never had anything to show for it. Making your own money and being creative makes you feel good about yourself.
What advice do you have for young chefs now?
I think that today the way everything is going so fast. Just be patient and learn while you work for someone else. Make your mistakes at someone else’s expense before breaking out on your own. Come and work at CUT and you’ll know what to do when you leave.
A lot of people forget how to learn to do the basics. They might be able to cook 10 dishes really well but after a while it gets boring. Or they want to be celebrities and appear on TV.. Nobody wants to really put in the work anymore to get there. They want instant fame and instant riches.
I teach new chefs about hospitality. Cooking with food is one thing but how you treat your guests is just as important. That’s why the dining room staff and the cooking staff must have a good relationship. If not, the customers will sense it. They must be as proud as the chefs to bring the food to our guests. And to make our guests feel good.
You’ve cooked at the Governor’s Ball at the Oscars for the last 24 years…
We love it. And we are so organised its run like clockwork. It’s easy for me because I just decide what we’re gonna cook, and how we’re gonna do it and my team executes.
Do the celebrities usually want the same dish?
Some want the classic chicken pot pie with black truffle – Barbra Streisand always ask for it. As do the older board members. We make our pizzas, our smoked salmon Oscars, our golden chocolate Oscars. W mix tradition with new ideas.
You know once you know them they’re just people. Some are excellent at what they do. Some aren’t. Some are nice. Some not so nice. To me money doesn’t the man; man makes the money. Look at Federer.. he’s a very charming down-to-earth guy. He could be all pompous but he’s not.
What’s the key to success?
If you love what you do and you’re not afraid to work you can become successful. Hospitality is a tough job. I remember all those years ago when I started at Beaumaniere in Provence, Tuillier was already 72 years old. He was so passionate about the hotel and the cuisine. He was a great mentor. I was 19, he was 72.
One of my Harvard professors, Boris Groysberg told me that now I am older I have to get younger men on board. The Harvard course has younger guys too so I can learn so much.
So I ask my son what he would like to drink when he goes out. His group are in their early 20s… it’s very different. They don’t go out to eat one big meal. They might go to a lounge for a cocktail. Then meet some friends at another place. Then maybe go to another place for a meal. Go home at 2am and eat in three different places. It’s a new paradigm. They are future customers.
Who have you met in your life that has had a lasting impression?
One person from my Beaumanière days. He was a famous actor and had just made a movie and he was so handsome and he had a beautiful girlfriend. Now he’s the Godfather of our children. His name is Sidney Poitier. When Obama got in I told him: Sidney you have to go and teach Obama how to speak. He’s such a beautiful gracious man and a good friend.
He actually asked me if he could be my sons’ godfather. What an honour. He likes coconut sorbet so I often take him some. I was so lucky to be around at that time when Hollywood was a different place. I used to play tennis with Gene Kelly.
Do you have plans to write your memoir?
Well, I’m having a meeting in New York next week with Ruth Reichl, former editor in Chief of Gourmet Food magazine. She knows me very well. I have so many stories! Somehow I wasn’t intimated by these stars and they trusted me. I was always discrete.
How did you meet your wife?
Gelila was a customer. I just chatted her up. I talk to everybody. As well as being the company’s designer and creative director, my wife helps a school in Ethiopia – she supports 800 children there, and started with 20 children about 20 years ago. The kids have grown up and we went to their graduation ceremony. They are all such amazing children. It’s so important to give back. Especially when you have been given so much.
Where and How
Where: 45 Park Ln, Mayfair, London W1K 1PN Website: dorchestercollection.com How: Phone 020 7493 4545 or visit dorchestercollection.com to make a booking.
by ginabaksa | Nov 21, 2019 | Travel Writing
An oasis of peace among hectic Fez Medina, I discover Palais Amani’s world of calm elegance
Regarded as the historical and cultural capital of Morocco, Fez is finally breaking out of the shadows of its more well-known southern neighbour Marrakech and having its own moment in the African sun. Thanks to new flights from across Europe and a new internal flight from Marrakech, this vibrant northern city is more accessible than ever. Known for its vibrant car- and moped-free souks and stunning architectural heritage, Fes’s star is deservedly on the ascendant.
This is my first visit to Morocco and with adrenaline-fuelled excitement, I’m gazing out through double-height windows across a stunning palace Riad courtyard from my second floor luxury suite.
But this is no ordinary suite – I’m luxuriating in the impressive 100m2 Grand Suite at the beautiful Palais Amani – an oasis of calm located just inside Fez Medina. Encompassing the entire south wing of the first floor, the suite’s highlight features include his-and-hers dressing rooms tucked discreetly behind the capacious superking bed, Berber carpets, sparkling stained glass windows that capture the mid-afternoon light, a massive plunge bath fit for a ménage à quatre, vintage tiled flooring and an ante room with desk, sofa and TV. Nespresso with complimentary Vivalto and Lungo pods are standard. As is a welcome kettle and complimentary water.
And it’s this jaw-dropping tranquil spaciousness that beckons my Ryanair-scrunched body to stretch and dance and whirl like a dervish. This suite is easily four times the size of my London flat. Ceilings are a vertiginous 10m tall. I feel like I’m in a cathedral.
Located at one of the most significant entrances to Fez Medina, the Palais Amani is a former 17th-century palace. Rebuilt in the 1930s, this stunning listed building with its Art Deco touches has undergone complete refurbishment and is breathtaking. Home to 15 suites and bedrooms, it offers guests a tranquil spacious haven – an elegant mix of traditional and modern aesthetics – replete with restaurant, roof top bar and cookery school and spa-hammam.
I’ve arrived by taxi from the new Fez-Saïs airport. A massive light and airy space with beautiful Moorish design and just a 30-minute taxi ride from the Riad. Collected by a uniformed Palais Amani host from the Oued Zhoune car park just 50m from the hotel (outside the car-free Medina), he helps me with my luggage up a narrow alleyway and we enter via an inconspicuous door.
Wealth is reserved for the inside of houses in Morocco and the Palais Amani is no exception. This opulent building’s focus is inward: every window and door and plaster filigree looks towards the beautiful garden and fountain with its mosaic tiles, hand-carved panels, and chirruping birds who also inhabit this sanctuary. I savour a refreshing mint tea before exploring the Medina.
It’s the beginning of Ramadan and many of the shops are closed, however this hasn’t reduced the number of people meandering among the 10,000 narrow alleyways. I’m initially overwhelmed by the movement, sounds and aromas. The Medina alone has around 9000 shops… this rabbit warren of streets is replete with stray cats and kittens, foodstuffs, caged chickens, overladen donkeys (if you’re an animal lover or rescuer then look away), slabs of meat and fish on counter tops, flies a-buzzing. I’ve never seen anything like it.
Some locals are happy for you to take photos; others eschew being part of yet another influencer’s Insta feed and will wave you off with a stern look. I pass groups of Chinese tourists their noses covered with sprigs of mint or wearing face masks. As its Ramadan – no eating or drinking between sunrise and sunset – there are fewer tourists. My best advice is to walk slowly, savouring the visual, aural and auditory feast in front of you. And practice your bargaining chops with humour and grace. It’s an important part of Moroccan culture and the storeholders expect you to enter the game too.
Shops I visit include L’art mauresque at 50 Rue Jamma Laranja lablida and there are many stalls selling argan oil too – head for Herborite Divan for good products. My guide takes me to a superb carpet shop – Dar Ibn Khaldoun at 45 Derb Ben Chekroune Lablida. Expect to be shown myriad varieties of silk and Berber wool… all for a fraction of the price you’ll see in London showrooms. But be prepared to bargain hard.
The owner is charm personified and he knows how to get a deal. Unless you are a serious buyer/collector, eschew the mint tea offered and decide on your budget before you even enter the emporium. Begin your offer some way below that until you reach your desired price. And don’t go above. For lamps and tea pots head for Le Tresor Mirinides owned by Youssef Lamrini.
Unless you’re feeling unadventurous, don’t bother with a guide (he’ll only take you to friends selling carpets, scarves etc) and instead venture out and explore the Medina yourself. Located inside the ancient walled part of the city Fez Medina is Africa’s largest and its alleys are filled with food stalls, pop-up counters, established shops selling spices and new fusion restaurants. It’s perfectly safe – I was travelling solo. And since it’s pedestrian and donkey and carts only, you won’t be looking over your shoulder every two seconds to avoid mopeds and carts as I did in Marrakech. It actually feels like Marrakech probably was around 20 years ago. So visit Fes now before it bends to the demands of tourism.
The special Ftour or Iftar – the meal that breaks the daily fast – is served at Palais Amani between 7.30pm to 8.30pm. I choose from the à la carte menu and eat in the shady cool courtyard with birds my aural accompaniment, alongside a fine Moroccan Volubilia – my first taste of Moroccan wine. Restaurant Eden at the Palais Amani prides itself on using fresh, local provenance and the menu reflects this with my delicious entrée of beet apple and nut salad, followed by fish of the day with slow-cooked veggies tagine style, finishing with a delicious tarte au citron for dessert.
Watching the sun set from the Palais Amani rooftop with the aural backdrop of the muezzin call to prayer (Adhan) was intoxicating. An ancient call (five times a day) that ignited long-distant memories of another time and place.
I found myself on the rooftop again the following morning when I joined the Palais Amani’s cooking lesson – at their new purpose-built Fez Cooking School with superb views over the Medina and beyond. The school offers visitors to Fez a unique insight into this magical city combining a foodie tour of the medina followed by a cookery class.
Once at my cooking station (gas hob, thank God) all my ingredients are laid out ready. Charming Head Chef Hassim gives me a Fez and apron and I begin prepping the beautifully colourful fresh veggies which I then stacked wigwam-like in my tagine. Cooking the aubergine on a raw flame until it crisped then scooping out the warm insides was amazing. And I proudly ate my creation on the roof terrace – such fun!
Earlier I’d joined Chef Hassim for a fascinating and fast-paced amble through the souks, gathering prime ingredients among the 10,000 alleyways. The cooking school is available to all guests and includes a two-hour tour of the souks, including a breakfast soup treat, a mint tea expert and plenty of stalls selling cakes.
All guests on the Cookery Break take home a Palais Amani apron, a mini basket of spices and detailed recipe sheets to recreate the new recipes back home. Cookery classes include: Tajine and side dishes (€97 private or €77 part of a group) or Moroccan breads and pastries (€67 private). Palais Amani can also arrange wine demonstrations and tastings, city tours and even classes in henna painting. As well as recommending trustworthy craftsmen in the souks.
In addition to the Palais Amani’s own restaurant Eden, there are excellent local restaurants to explore too. At nearby Dar Roumana (+212 (0) 535 635524), French chef Vincent Bonnin, who trained at Michelin-starred restaurants, dishes up two- and three-course menus of prettily plated Mediterranean-inspired cuisine.
The menu changes daily, based on what looks good at the market that day. The restaurant is closed on Mondays, and it’s best to book in advance. In the heart of the medina, NUR (+212 (0) 694277849) offers a contemporary take of traditional Moroccan meals from the Middle Atlas Mountains. Take a seat in the chic black-and-white dining room; dishes change daily depending on what fresh fare catches the chef’s eye at market.
There is a small café on a square near the Chaabine that is on the first floor overlooking a newly restored Fondouk; the tea is brewed in a large copper urn with huge bunches of mint and alarming amounts of sugar, but the smell is wonderful like mint imperials spearmint and almost as vivid green when poured from a height into a large glass.
Moi Anan, a tiny Thai restaurant (and boutique) in the medina that has delicious dishes should you fancy a break from the local delicacies.
Very close to the Palais Amani is a bazaar called Ali’s Art gallery. It’s very Tardis-like in that once through the doors it goes from floor-to-floor and room-to-room each overflowing with the most incredible works of art, furniture, jewellery, mirrors; an absolute Aladdin’s cave.
Farther afield, don’t miss the extraordinary Roman ruins at Volubilis – the best preserved in North Africa, boasting amazing mosaics – while the Atlas Mountains offer inspiring hiking trails and unbeatable views across the desert back to Fez, as well as the opportunity to visit a rural mountain village or two. And of course the enigmatic blue city of Chefchaouen is a must-see.
An oasis of peace among hectic Fez Medina, Palais Amani’s calm elegance, tranquil courtyard and rooftop, as well as superb service and outstanding rooms and suites makes for a truly memorable stay in Fez.
Where & How
Where: Palais Amani, 12 Derb El Miter, Oued Zhoune, Hay Blida, Fez Medina, Morocco
How: Phone +212 5 35 63 32 09, email contact@palaisamani.com or visit palaisamani.com.
Getting there: Direct international flights to Fez from many European destinations. Taxis from Fez Saïs Airport take around 45 minutes. Fez station is 15 minutes’ drive from Palais Amani and linked to Tangier, Casablanca and Marrakech.
Cost: Rooms rate includes breakfast. From €160 for a regular room. Grand Suite from €350.
